Farinata with goat's cheese, rocket & smoked paprika vinaigretteFarinata is the epitome of Ligurian peasant food (the French call it socca). It's a thin pancake, traditionally cooked in a wood-fired ovenRosé - Wine tasting 2011
In time for summer, our panel has been in the pink, says John Saker.
by John Saker | Cuisine issue #150 | Friday, 16 December, 2011 The rush to blush goes on... The popularity of rosé wines, both in this country and overseas, continues to grow and our rosé tasting threw up an array of different styles. In this respect, rosé is a little like riesling or pinot gris – some styles cater for those who enjoy soft, sweetish wines; others come in a drier, crisper style. As panellist and Master Sommelier Cameron Douglas noted, the latter is generally more food-friendly, which is why you’re more likely to encounter it on restaurant wine lists. The panel went in search of rosés that, regardless of style, showed balance, charm and freshness, and found a handful of delightful wines.
TOP ROSÉ

Lil Rippa Waipara Glasnevin Gravels Rosé 2011 (Canterbury) $14-$18
Relatively dark in colour, this enticing rosé is like a summer salad of rich juicy red berry fruits. Plenty of go-forward, vibrant acidity nicely balances the whisper of sweetness, and a fleshy texture adds presence. Its sheer drinkability was much praised. It would be an ideal running mate for a cold lunch of glazed ham with chickpea salad. [A]
Fast flowing rippa
What do you say when you taste a wine that is outstanding quality for the price? Shoestring Wines’ Mike Poff and business partner Michael Pearce asked themselves that question and came up with an answer now seen on wine shelves nationwide – Lil Rippa. “From the beginning in 2009, our goal has been to make reserve-level wine with a sub-regional focus at an everyday price,” says Poff. “We see Lil Rippa wines as being the weekday wine for connoisseurs and an ‘any time’ wine for those on a budget.” The pair immediately focused on getting their wines into supermarkets, which they see as the best connection to those wine drinkers. After 10 years as a viticulturist, including time at Mud House Wines and Villa Maria, Poff uses his contacts around the country to buy quality fruit and to have the wine made by experienced contract winemakers under his stylistic direction.
“We wanted to make a bloke’s rosé, one with a punch,” he says. They seem to have hit the mark. “The guys are drinking our concentrated rosé.”
Martinborough Vineyard Rosé 2011(Martinborough)
$20 (375ml)
Always a favourite when the sun shines at Toast Martinborough, this enchanting pinot rosé has a strong record for quality. Made in an off-dry style, it is intense and lively, offering plenty of ripe cherry and berryfruit flavours. “Lovely,” noted Michael Brajkovich.
Trinity Hill Hawke’s Bay Rosé 2011 $19-$20
Colour brilliance (darkish fuchsia) is matched by the vividness of the fruit. Intense, pure, red and dark fruit flavours stand up and have their say. Made predominantly from cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc, it would go superbly with kofti (Turkish meatballs) and salads.
8 Ranges Central Otago Pinot Rosé 2011 $22-$28
Toasty aromatics lead to a fleshy, yet delicate wine that is off-dry in style, made by Burgundy winemaker Lucie Lawrence in Central Otago. Light red fruits – strawberries and cherries – are nicely countered by some herbal, flinty tones. The overriding impression is an approachable and pretty drink. [B]
Akarua Pinot Rosé (Central Otago) $21.90-$23.90
Pinot-esque scents and attractive fruit sweetness are harnessed to crisp
acidity. The aromatics of a “perfumed” lady’s handbag also convey the warm, slightly caramelly notes. This wine would suit lightly spiced Asian dishes.
Lime Rock Pinot Rosé 2011 (Hawke’s Bay) $19.50-$23
Grown on limestone in Central Hawke’s Bay, this off-dry wine shows a delightful core of fragrant berry fruit wrapped around a soft, creamy texture, with real persistence to the finish. A moreish drop to sip late into a summer evening.
Mud House Marlborough Rosé 2011 $18-$20
Provençal in colour (pale salmon) with restrained floral scents, this wine leaves a delicate footprint. Minerally and lean, with a hint of sweetness, it is perfect with a salade Niçoise (close your eyes and you could be in St Raphael).
For wines awarded three stars in Cuisine’s 2011 NZ rosé tasting, click here
| The Tasting panel Joining regular panel chair John Belsham to sound out the rosé releases were Michael Brajkovich MW, Master Sommelier Cameron Douglas and associate judges (non-scoring) Jane Boyle and John Saker. |
TOP ROSÉ
Relatively dark in colour, this enticing rosé is like a summer salad of rich juicy red berry fruits. Plenty of go-forward, vibrant acidity nicely balances the whisper of sweetness, and a fleshy texture adds presence. Its sheer drinkability was much praised. It would be an ideal running mate for a cold lunch of glazed ham with chickpea salad. [A]
Fast flowing rippa
What do you say when you taste a wine that is outstanding quality for the price? Shoestring Wines’ Mike Poff and business partner Michael Pearce asked themselves that question and came up with an answer now seen on wine shelves nationwide – Lil Rippa. “From the beginning in 2009, our goal has been to make reserve-level wine with a sub-regional focus at an everyday price,” says Poff. “We see Lil Rippa wines as being the weekday wine for connoisseurs and an ‘any time’ wine for those on a budget.” The pair immediately focused on getting their wines into supermarkets, which they see as the best connection to those wine drinkers. After 10 years as a viticulturist, including time at Mud House Wines and Villa Maria, Poff uses his contacts around the country to buy quality fruit and to have the wine made by experienced contract winemakers under his stylistic direction.
“We wanted to make a bloke’s rosé, one with a punch,” he says. They seem to have hit the mark. “The guys are drinking our concentrated rosé.”
Always a favourite when the sun shines at Toast Martinborough, this enchanting pinot rosé has a strong record for quality. Made in an off-dry style, it is intense and lively, offering plenty of ripe cherry and berryfruit flavours. “Lovely,” noted Michael Brajkovich.
Toasty aromatics lead to a fleshy, yet delicate wine that is off-dry in style, made by Burgundy winemaker Lucie Lawrence in Central Otago. Light red fruits – strawberries and cherries – are nicely countered by some herbal, flinty tones. The overriding impression is an approachable and pretty drink. [B]
Pinot-esque scents and attractive fruit sweetness are harnessed to crisp
acidity. The aromatics of a “perfumed” lady’s handbag also convey the warm, slightly caramelly notes. This wine would suit lightly spiced Asian dishes.
Grown on limestone in Central Hawke’s Bay, this off-dry wine shows a delightful core of fragrant berry fruit wrapped around a soft, creamy texture, with real persistence to the finish. A moreish drop to sip late into a summer evening.
| To source wines listed, contact the distributor (indexed by letter). [A] Shoestring Wines, ph: 021-994 123 [B] Tussock Ridge Vineyard, ph: 027-222 3381 |
For wines awarded three stars in Cuisine’s 2011 NZ rosé tasting, click here
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