White Restaurant
Lauraine Jacobs
at the Hilton
$$$
Hilton Hotel
Princes Wharf
Auckland
Ph: 09-978 2000
Licensed
Open: Lunch and dinner, 7 days
Cuisine rating: Eat: 8.5 Drink: 7 Look: 8 Care: 7.5
There’s a touch of glamour on the wharf with the arrival of the Hilton’s signature restaurant. White by name and white by design, this is cutting-edge décor that you will love or hate. We loved it, as it is a perfect foil for both trad black garb and the full palette of colour currently displayed by the fashionable and fancy. Walk up the stairs from the Bellini Bar and you’re headlong into a spectacular view of the harbour over the top of a dramatic long, bar-height white table. White linen cloaks the dining tables, white marble tiles cover the columns, and the white leather chairs are the most comfortable in town.
The food is extremely good. My companion, who has a very critical and experienced palate, could find no fault at all! Luke Mangan, the wonder kid from Sydney, has been retained to consult initially, and the very capable Geoffrey Scott, who has a CV that is the envy of most chefs, is the executive chef. With Luke’s concepts and Geoffrey’s conscientious detailing, the food is attractive, well seasoned and delicious. The menu is small, succinct, and offers fashionably sized portions. This is not a place where you could have an entrée at lunch or dinner and call it a meal. Rather, follow the menu and order an entrée followed by a main, and go away satisfied and happy.
The menu will change seasonally, but do not miss the cauliflower soup with oyster and truffle oil; the tomato and grilled haloumi salad with watercress, radish and lavender oil; the mushroom risotto, or the parmesan and sage crusted chicken with artichoke purée and cinnamon sauce. Sound good? There are several other choices of this type of food – simple but perfectly cooked.
White’s wine list has some interesting choices, especially among the white varietals, and an additional cellar list where the wines come at quite a price (top is $1100 for Grange ’93). Service is friendly and helpful, although not yet quite at the professional level that such a hotel should offer.
On the weekends the deck should become very popular for brunch, as there’s a great menu of breakfast treats. In the evenings and at lunch a dégustation menu is offered, at $95 for food only, or $160 with accompanying wine selections. 
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