An insider's guide to Tokyo
Alessandra Zecchini
Japan is a country of big, passionate and knowledgeable eaters. Go anywhere in the country and you will find a local cuisine. Turn on any TV channel and you will see cooking programmes. Open any magazine or even comic book and there again food will be a big topic. Greater Tokyo-Yokohama, the world’s biggest city with 25 million hungry dwellers, has everything a gourmand could dream of, from big, fancy restaurants to street stalls where noodles can be slurped while standing.
With that in mind I hope the reader will understand that no food guide can be anything but limited (in this case to places I’ve visited or had highly recommended). What I’ve attempted here is a selection of the best and most interesting places: places that are easy to reach from hotel or tourist districts (the nearest station is included in parentheses after each address).
If you are going to live in Tokyo, this list is only the beginning of a great adventure. As you start to get to know your neighbourhood and your Japanese improves, hundreds more options for great eating and drinking arise. On the other hand, if your stay is short, either select the restaurant by the kind of food you prefer to try (i.e. sushi, soba), or by the proximity to your hotel.
Finally, one of the best things about being in Tokyo is the abundance of events. At different times of the year local district festivals, or matsuri, draw people from one temple to another, with stalls selling food and curiosities until late at night. It’s worth checking with the tourist office or your hotel to see whether something special is happening during your stay.
Bon appétit or as they say in Japanese itadakimasu . . .
Where to eat
Aoi Marushin
Tempura and Kaiseki Ryori
1-4-4 Asakusa, Taito Ku,
ph: 03-3841 5439 (Asakusa)
Open 10.00am to 9.00pm
seven days
English menu.
Chances are that you will visit the Asakusa Temple, a busy and noisy tourist Mecca. The surrounding district is famous for tempura which, during the Edo period (1600-1868), was the fast food of the commoners. Aoi Marushin is inexpensive and also serves sashimi and unagi (grilled eel). For better food go to the fifth floor, where they have another tempura bar that uses higher quality ingredients, and also Kaiseki ryori (Japan’s classic multi-course haute cuisine) with set menus at 5000, 6000 and 7000 yen. It may seem expensive, but Kaiseki Ryori can easily cost you 10,000 to 20,000 yen in the specialist restaurants.
Bon
Shojin Ryori (vegetarian)
1-2-11 Ryusen, Taito-ku,
ph: 03-3872 0234 (Hibiya)
Open 12pm to 1.30pm and 5.00pm to 7.00pm,
closed Tuesdays
English menu, some English spoken.
Shojin Ryori is the traditional Japanese vegetarian food, usually made in Buddhist temples. At Bon they have a set lunch for 3800 yen and set dinners for 5000, 7000, 8000 and 10,000 yen. The relative expense and limited opening hours are explained by the time Shojin Ryori takes to prepare. Traditional décor with tatami mats and low tables, although standard tables are also available.
Edogin
Sushi
4-5-12 Tsukiji, Chuo-ku,
ph: 03-3543 4401 (Tsukiji)
Open 11.00am to 9.30pm
seven days
Some English spoken.
Some of the best sushi restaurants in Tokyo are located here in Tsukiji, not far from the fish market, and Edogin certainly has fishmonger connections because its sushi is top quality. The chefs are trained for 10 years, 13 hours a day, by the senior itamae (sushi chef) and the Kondo family, which opened Edogin in 1924, still runs it. Set menus starting at around 1000 yen will help you keep control
of the budget.
Heiroku Sushi
Kaiten Zushi
(revolving sushi bar)
5-8-5 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku,
ph: 03-3498 3968 (Omotesando)
Open 11.00am to 9.00pm
seven days
English not spoken but staff are used to foreigners.
Heiroku is a landmark in the trendy Omotesando-Jingumae area. The full variety of sushi is available, plus asparagus and mayonnaise sushi in spring, and in autumn matsutake sushi (with a prized mushroom reminiscent of porcini). Prices are very reasonable, starting at 120 yen per dish.
Hinoya
Traditional Japanese cuisine
1-25-14 Taira-cho, Meguro-ku,
ph: 03-3718 4343 (Toritsu Daigaku)
Open 11.30am to 2.00pm and 5.00pm to 10.00pm seven days
No English spoken.
Slightly off the beaten track, but certainly appreciated by the Tokyoites, this expensive-looking restaurant is, in reality, very good value, especially for the lunch courses, from 1500 yen.
Kan
Traditional Japanese
steak house
1-2-11 Zoshigaya, Toshima-ku,
ph: 03-3590 2911 (Gokokuji)
Open 11.00am to 2.00pm
and 5.00pm to 10.00pm,
closed Sundays
Some English spoken.
A very formal waitress wearing a beautiful kimono will welcome you into this fabulous restaurant which seems stuck in a time warp. Set among the old quarters of Zoshigaya, Kan is traditional and discreet, complete with a small Japanese garden. Dinner courses are priced at 14,000, 17,000 and 20,000 yen, but lunches are very good value at 5000 yen and, together with the usual fare of sashimi, tempura and the like, you also get a tender Japanese steak. Booking is essential and can be done through your hotel.
Kanda Yabu Soba
Soba
2-10 Kanda Awaji-cho,
Chiyoka-ku,
ph: 03-3251 0287 (Awaji-cho)
Open 11.30am to 7.00pm, closed Mondays
No English spoken, but very easy menu.
If you like the delicate taste of soba this is probably one of the best places in Tokyo for it. Originator of the Yabu style (dark brown, country-style soba), Kanda Yabu Soba has been famous for over a hundred years. Portions start at 600 yen, but are a bit small, better if accompanied by the restaurant’s excellent tempura (1200 yen). Also recommended is soba sushi, 700 yen, and in winter Kamo-nanban soba (wild duck soba) at 1500 yen.
Sekishin-tei
Teppanyaki (Japanese grill)
Hotel New Otani,
Japanese Garden,
4-1 Kioi-cho, Chiyoda-ku,
ph: 03-3238 0024 (Nagatacho/Akasakamitsuke)
Open 11.30am to 2.00pm and 6.00pm to 9.00pm seven days
English spoken.
Admire the skilful chefs chopping and grilling the best Japanese beef and fish right in front of you, while enjoying the pleasures of one of the most beautiful gardens in Tokyo. Prices from 12,000 to 20,000 yen; booking recommended.
Shabusen
Sukiyaki and Shabushabu
Ginza Core Bldg 5-8-20 Ginza, Chuo-ku, ph: 03-3572 3806 (Ginza)
Open 11.00am to 2.00pm and 5.00pm to 10.00pm seven days
Little English spoken.
This is a chance to try the most famous Japanese beef dishes at a low price in the heart of Ginza’s shopping quarters. Sukiyaki is offered for lunch only, at about 1000 yen, while shabushabu courses are reserved for dinner, from around
2500 to 6500 yen.
Sugino Ko
Contemporary Japanese
3-8-12 Kita Aoyama, Minato-ku,
ph: 03-3797 7758 (Omotesando)
Open 11.00am to 10.00pm seven days
English menu, some English
spoken.
A beautiful setting for this trendy new restaurant where delicious Japanese dishes are complemented by an interesting selection of wines, mainly from France. Desserts are also served, unusual after a Japanese meal. On the menu: ice-cream with cherry blossoms, sesame tofu with Japanese honey, and soy-milk bavarois. Within walking distance you can find two other restaurants under the same name (and ownership): Sugino Ko, at
5-1-3 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku, ph: 03-3486 0160, and the Chinese Sugino Ko, 5-2-2 Jingumae, ph: 03-3797 6537.
Sushi Sen
Trendy sushi
3-2-7 Minami-Aoyama,
Minato-ku,
ph: 03-5410 6010 (Gaienmae)
Open 6.00pm to 1.00am,
closed Sundays
Some English spoken.
Excellent sushi in a stylish setting. Thirty-one-year-old chef Koizumi, from Sapporo, creates traditional sushi as well as innovations like tekkamaki ochazuke (tuna roll infused with green tea). Expensive, though, and it’s easy to spend 4000 to 5000 yen for 10 pieces of sushi.
Uotami
Inexpensive, full range
3-8-40 Minami-Aoyama,
Minato-ku,
ph: 03-3408 4288 (Omotesando)
Open 5.00pm to 5.00am
seven days
No English spoken.
You don’t really need English here, just choose from the extensive photo menu and have fun. Located on the second floor of the Aoyama Centre Building, Uotami looks a bit worn and noisy, but the atmosphere is great: it is always full of people of all ages and backgrounds, and makes you really feel you’re in Tokyo. The prices are incredibly low, with small dishes starting at around 250 yen; good value are the individual nabe – hotpots that you cook yourself at the table.
Where to drink
Drinking goes hand in hand with eating in Japan, so the traditional izakaya (pubs) always offer food, starting with a small free platter as soon as you sit down. Saké can be drunk hot or cold, according to the season, as can shochu (a saké-like liquor, distilled from barley, rice, or sweet potato), to which hot water and lemon or plum can be added. A refreshing variation is chuhai (a shochu highball,
very popular with women), not forgetting the fine Japanese beer.
The izakaya takes you right inside Japanese society and is an experience not to be missed. English is rarely spoken, but the courtesy of the host and a few cups of saké will help you overcome any language barrier.
Chirimbo
3-8-7 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku,
ph: 03-3350 6945
(Shinjuku 3-chome)
Open 5.00pm to 5.00am, 5.00pm to 12.00am Sunday
No English spoken.
Thirty types of saké, plus beer and shochu are served in this Japanese country-style izakaya, with inexpensive sashimi, tofu, and other snacks.
Iseto
4-2 Kagurazaka, Shinjuku-ku,
ph: 03-3260 6363 (Kagurazaka)
Open 5.00pm to 9.30pm,
closed on weekends
English spoken.
Few snacks are served here, and only one type of saké, but that brew is warmed over charcoal by Mr Kameyama, who speaks fluent English and makes you feel at home in this old-style izakaya in the heart of the gorgeous traditional district
of Kagurazaka.
Saké no Hana
3-5-8 Ginza, Chuo-ku,
ph: 03-3567 1133 (Ginza)
Open 11.30am to 11.30pm seven days
No English spoken.
An incredible selection of saké (about 120 types), which you can warm yourself at the table.
Sasashu
2-2-2 Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku,
ph: 03-3971 6796 (Ikebukuro)
Open 5.00pm to 11.00pm, closed Sundays
No English spoken.
A favourite with saké connoisseurs, who can choose from among 40 types personally selected by the master.
The Pink Cow
1-10-1 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku,
ph: 03-5411 6777 (Meijijingumae)
Open 5.00pm to 11.00pm, closed Mondays
English menu, English spoken.
As you can guess from the name this is not a traditional izakaya, but I had to include it for the ‘sake’ of those who, after a few days (or hours) in Tokyo, are feeling a little culture-shocked. Here, most of the customers, and all the staff, are English speakers (the bar manager is from Wellington), the atmosphere is extremely relaxed, the wines and food mainly Californian. Very popular with the arty types.
Where to shop
 Stock up on dried seaweed and mushrooms, decent miso paste and pickled plums. Japanese knives and pottery are among the best in the world, wooden utensils inexpensive and long-lasting.
Asadaya Wagashiten
1-9-3 Sekiguchi, Bunkyo-ku,
ph: 03-3269 2326 (Edogawabashi)
Open 9.00am to 6.30pm,
closed Thursdays
Some English spoken by family members (weekends are best).
Traditional Japanese cakes made on the premises, beautifully presented and
skilfully wrapped. Also rice crackers and pre-packed cakes and sweets to take back home with you. Next door there is a lovely shop that sells teas and tea ceremony necessities.
Natural House
3-6-18 Kita Aoyama, Minato-ku,
ph: 03-3498 2277 (Omotesando)
Open 10.00am to 10.00pm seven days
Some English spoken.
A welcome surprise to find a store that sells organic produce in the centre of town, and this is one of the few places in Tokyo that offers lunch boxes with brown rice. A few metres up the road check out Kinokuniya International supermarket, even just to remind yourself how much a decent slice of brie costs in this part of the world.
Oriental Bazaar
5-9-13 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku,
ph: 03-3400 3933 (Omotesando)
Open 9.30am to 6.30pm,
closed Thursdays
English spoken.
A one-stop souvenir store that stocks antiques, crafts, jewellery and novelties, along with a good range of English-language books about Japan (including recipe books and travel guides).
Viale
13 Tenjin-cho, Shinjuku-ku,
ph: 03-3269 7998 (Kagurazaka)
Open 10.00am to 6.00pm,
closed weekends and Mondays
English spoken.
Beautiful table mats, coasters and textiles hand-woven on the premises and dyed with traditional Japanese plants.
Department Stores
You must visit at least one department store in Tokyo, as they are FABULOUS! All tend to follow the same formula: food courts are traditionally located in the basement and they are huge, a feast for the eyes and the stomach (plenty of free tastings). On the top floors there is always a host of restaurants with inexpensive set lunches, while crockery tends to be on the fifth or the sixth floors. English floor plans are available at the entrance.
Takashimaya
2-4-1 Nihonbashi,
Chuo-ku,
ph: 03-3211 4111 (Nihonbashi)
Open 10.00am to 7.00pm, closed Wednesdays.
This is my favourite: not too huge, very classy, the Harrods of Tokyo.
Isetan
3-14-1 Shinjuku,
Shinjuku-ku,
ph: 03-3225 2514
(Shinjuku 3-chome)
Open 10.00am to 7.30pm, closed some Wednesdays.
Isetan has a foreign customer-service counter on the seventh floor to assist you with your shopping (the phone number provided takes you directly to an English speaker).
Tobu
1-1-25 Nishi-Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku, ph: 03-3981 2211 (Ikebukuro)
Open 10.00am to 8.00pm
seven days.
Right at Ikebukuro Station, this is apparently the biggest department store in Japan. Try not to get lost.
Where to stay
Four Seasons Hotel Chinzan-so
2-10-8 Sekiguchi, Bunkyo-ku,
ph: 03-3943 2222,
fax: 03-3943 2300 (Edogawabashi)
A magnificent hotel. The largest standard rooms in Tokyo, with every possible amenity and two TV sets (one in the bathroom); the service is impeccable and the spa uses natural hot-spring water brought in from the Izu Peninsula. Adjoining Chinzan-so is one of the most beautiful gardens in the city, and is worth visiting even if only for afternoon tea. Room prices from 47,000 yen for a standard double, to a forbidding 501,000 yen for the Imperial Suite.
Hotel New Otani
4-1 Kioi-cho, Chiyoda-ku,
ph: 03-3265 1111,
fax: 03-3221 2619
(Nagatacho/Akasakamistuke)
For those who like big deluxe hotels, the New Otani is perfect: 1600 rooms, over 30 restaurants and bars, four shopping arcades, an art museum and – the cherry on the cake – a four-hectare, 700-year-old Japanese garden, complete with waterfalls and bridges. Prices from 28,500 yen for a standard room to 401,000 yen for the Presidential Suite.
Sunshine City Prince Hotel
3-1-5 Higashi-Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku,
ph: 03-3988 1111,
fax: 03-3988 7878
(Higashi-Ikebukuro)
The Prince Hotel is located between the 20th and the 32nd floors of the 60-storey Sunshine Building. Elsewhere in the building is a planetarium and a huge aquarium on the 10th floor, plus a restaurant and bar on the 59th floor. A single room costs 18,480 yen, doubles start at 25,000 yen and suites at 50,000 yen.
Hotel Ibis Roppongi
7-14-4 Roppongi, Minato-ku,
ph: 03-3403 4411,
fax: 03-3479 0609 (Roppongi)
A popular choice for foreigners and night-life lovers, Hotel Ibis is located in the Roppongi entertainment district, with great night views of the city and Tokyo tower (an Eiffel-like structure decorated with red lights). Single rooms cost 13,282 yen per night, doubles 19,866 yen.
Wakana
4-7 Kagurazaka, Shinjuku-ku,
ph: 03-3260 3769 (Kagurazaka)
This is a ryokan, a traditional Japanese inn, nowadays a rarity in Tokyo. Frequented by writers, Wakana is highly recommended at only 10,000 yen per night, plus 3000 yen if you want a Japanese breakfast. Ask directions for nearby
Koto no Fuji (5 Wakamiyacho, Shinjuku-ku), a small izakaya popular with sumo wrestlers.
More Information
Tokyo Tourist Centres (TIC)
Tokyo: B1, Tokyo International Forum, 3-5-1 Marunochi, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 100
Ph: 03-3211 4201,
fax: 03-3211 9009
E-mail: wirc@www.jnto.go.jp
Open 9.15am to 5.15pm Mon-Fri (closed national holidays)
Narita: Arrival Lobby,
Airport Terminal 2, New Tokyo International Airport
Narita-shi, Chiba-ken 282
Open 9.00am to 6.00pm
seven days
Japan National Tourist Organisation (JNTO)
Oceania Regional Office
Level 33, The Chifley Tower
2 Chifley Square, Sydney,
NSW 2000
Ph: 61-2 9232 4522,
fax: 61-2 9232 1494 
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