All's well in Manawatu
Margaret Brooker
Think of Manawatu and most people don’t immediately think of food. But in fact the Manawatu has made a major contribution to the food of the nation and continues to do so. A highly fertile region, the district is primarily agrarian and produces food at its most basic level. And Massey, initially as an agricultural college and more recently as a university with eight research institutes, has prov-ided the expertise and innovation which has led the primary industries forward. Graduates from the food technology department are working throughout the country’s food and wine industries.
At a more prepared level too, the Manawatu offers some delicious food. Dedicated artisan producers, cafés and restaurants combine to make dining in the Manawatu a positive experience.
Bounded by the Rangitikei and Manawatu Rivers, the Ruahine Ranges and the Tasman Sea, the Manawatu district is an orderly landscape of farmland and gardens. Palmerston North, or ‘Palmie’ as some locals dub it, is the region’s principal city. Built around a central square, flat Palmerston North is essentially laid out in a grid pattern, the Manawatu River lazily winding along its limits. With Massey University just across the river, the populace is youthful. Nearby Feilding is an agricultural service centre for the district. Eleven times the winner of New Zealand’s most beautiful town award, Feilding is proud of its Edwardian architecture.
Residents of the Manawatu cite the region’s central location as one of its advantages. Being a mere two hours from Wellington, Hawke’s Bay and the Wairarapa is a ‘gateway’ to the delights of those regions. But the entertainments on offer in the Manawatu itself are many and varied. It is not necessary to leave.  The region is rich with gardens to visit. Its natural assets include the Pohangina Valley – described by one of the locals as “the Manawatu’s best-kept secret”, the Manawatu Gorge, Himatangi Beach and the Tararua and Ruahine Ranges. These offer a range of outdoor pursuits such as trout fishing, jet boating, kayaking, tramping and horse trekking. Man-made spectacles are as diverse as the Tararua Wind Farm, the renowned weekly stock sales at the Feilding sale yards and jet sprints at Manfeild Park. And there is a variety of special interest museums.
Cafés and Restaurants
Barista
77 George St, Palmerston North,
ph: 06-357 2614, www.barista.co.nz
Styled ‘the espresso bar’, Barista not only offers coffee but contemporary and delicious brunch, café and evening menus and a wine list with some out-of-the-ordinary options, available by the glass. Dark walls of the industrial chic interior are offset by the floor-to-ceiling glass of the street frontage. Deservedly popular with all ages and types, Barista is the café in Palmerston North. Open seven days 6.30am-late. Licensed and BYO.
Bella’s Café
2 The Square, Palmerston North,
ph: 06-357 8616, www.bellas.co.nz
Locals speak highly of this central city café. Divided into ‘classics’ which remain a constant, and other changing dishes, the menu ranges from Italian to Thai to Pacific Rim. Open for lunch Tues-Sat 11am-3pm, dinner Mon-Sat 6 pm-late. Licensed and BYO.
Clark’s Café
4 The Square, City Library, Palmerston North, ph: 06-355 1902
Adjoining the City Library, this self-service café offers an appetising array of sandwiches, wraps, rolls and baking. The cakes are particularly enticing. Open Mon-Fri 7am-5pm, Sat 8am-4pm, Sun 9am-4pm.
Déjeuner
159 Broadway Ave, Palmerston North,
ph: 06-952 5581, www.dejeuner.co.nz
In restaurant terms Déjeuner is a veteran, having been a fine-dining destination for almost 20 years. And situated in an old house and decorated with rich dark colours the ambience spells establishment. Its signature dish, slow roasted lamb or veal shanks on a flavoured mash, has been on the menu in various guises for the last 15 years. But its blackboard menu, featuring predominantly European-derived dishes, has moved with the times. The wine list is unremarkable, while service is thoughtful and obliging. Despite its name which means lunch in French, Déjeuner is open in the evenings only Mon-Sat. Licensed and BYO. (Lunches and day-room hire by arrangement.)
Farlanes Caffè
46 Manchester St, Feilding, ph: 06-323 4405
Under very new ownership, this café now has no connection with its Taranaki parent of the same name. Light, spacious and pleasant, it is casual and child-friendly. During the day the fare is of the typical brunch, panini, pasta variety while the evening menu is wide-ranging in a contemporary fashion. Open Mon-Wed 9.30am-3pm, Thurs-Sat 9.30am-late, Sun 9.30am-3pm.
Marlows Coffee House
56 Manchester St, Feilding, ph: 06-323 1106
With Edwardian-inspired décor appropriate to an Edwardian town, this relatively new coffee house has an air of another era. The food on offer too, all from counter cabinets, has a slightly nostalgic touch. Apart from the breads, from Breadworks (see page 206), all the quiches, cakes and slices are made on the premises. The date scones have an understandably keen following. Open Mon-Fri 9am-5pm, Sat 10am-2pm.
The BathHouse Restaurant & Bar
161 Broadway Ave, Palmerston North,
ph: 06-952 5570, www.thebathhouse.co.nz
Housed in a former Turkish sauna, this restaurant and bar still has a warm ambience, with a brick fireplace in the centre, and a sunny, covered courtyard at the rear. The brunch menu offers the usual fare, while the all-day menu tends towards robust fusion food. As befits a bar, many of the wines on the Montana-dominated list are available by the glass. Open seven days from 10am.
The Elm Café & Brasserie
283 Fitzherbert Ave, Palmerston North, ph: 06-355 4418
In the midst of motel mile, The Elm Café is itself a cleverly disguised bunker, with a courtyard in front. Supplemented by counter food, the all-day menu acknowledges several cuisines with some appealing variations on café classics. Flavours are fresh and uncluttered. Many of the small but varied selection of antipodean wines are available by the glass. Open seven days 9am-5pm. Licensed.
The Herb Farm Café
North Grove Rd, Ashhurst, ph: 06-326 7479, email: herbfarm@inspire.net.nz
Overlooking The Herb Farm (see page 207), this café serves simple, seasonal fare. Chefs Karl Austen and Alastair Pearson, who also run Bella’s Café (page 203), make judicious use of the fresh herbs and salad leaves literally on their doorstep. Open Wed-Sun 10am-4.30pm (possibly reduced hours in winter).
The Village Inn Restaurant
358 Albert St, Palmerston North,
ph: 06-358 4999
Set in an old homestead in Hokowhitu Village the Inn comprises two simple rooms, one a casual café, the other a more formal restaurant, serving elaborate and generous food. (See page 222 for a full review.) Open for lunch Thurs-Fri 12pm-2pm, dinner Wed-Fri 4.30pm-late and Sat-Sun 6pm-late. Licensed, BYO Sundays (wine only).
Vavasseur
201 Broadway Ave, Palmerston North,
ph: 06-359 3167
Atmospheric and intimate, this restaurant offers assured contemporary food, a good selection of wines and friendly, helpful service. (See page 223 for a full review.) Open Tues-Sat from 6pm. Licensed and BYO (wine only).
Wharerata
Massey University, Palmerston North,
ph: 06-350 5088, http://wharerata.massey.ac.nz/restaurant.html
Re-evaluate your idea of university architecture and food with a visit to Wharerata, the former staff club, now open to the public. A charming old homestead set in delightful grounds, Wharerata hosts and caters for a variety of events and offers snacks and meals to casual diners. Open Mon-Fri 9am-3pm, Fri evenings à la carte.
Where To Stay
Manawatu is well provided for with conventional accommodation at every level but for something different...
Hiwinui Country Estate
465 Ashhurst-Bunnythorpe Rd, RD 11, Palmerston North, ph: 06-329 2838,
email: jan@hiwinui.co.nz, www.hiwinui.co.nz
Every room, except the wine cellar, of this newly constructed homestead on the Stewarts’ working farm enjoys vistas to the hills beyond. Two sumptuous and stylish bedrooms both with indulgent ensuites, comfortable and tasteful dining and sitting rooms coupled with Jan and Dave Stewart’s warm hospitality make this lodge a pleasure. Situated in the country but close to Palmerston North, Hiwinui affords the best of both worlds.
Makoura Lodge
Apiti, RD 1, Feilding, ph: 06-328 4746, email: makoura.lodge@xtra.co.nz, www.makouralodge.co.nz
Built on a ridge overlooking farmland and bush to the Ruahine Ranges, this lodge makes a peaceful base from which to explore the more remote Manawatu and engage in such outdoor pursuits as trout fishing and horse trekking, which staff will facilitate. The lodge itself, with a large hall dominated by a stone fireplace and accommodation in four adjacent units, is simple yet comfortable. In keeping with its rural nature the meals are hearty country fare.
Plum Tree Lodge
97 Russell St, Palmerston North, ph: 06-358 7813, email: plumtreelodge@xtra.co.nz
Secluded yet close to the city centre, this spacious, self-contained loft with a balcony among trees accommodates up to three people in simple, comfortable style. Host Robyn Anderson delivers provisions for a delicious breakfast.
The Palm & Oaks
183 Grey St, Palmerston North, ph: 06-359 0755, email: enquiries@thepalm-oaks.co.nz, www.thepalm-oaks.co.nz
This cleverly designed, spacious and tastefully furnished Italianate town house is conveniently located within easy walking distance of the city centre. With four double bedrooms, all with ensuites, sitting/dining room, separate kitchen, laundry, double garage, and two private courtyard gardens, it has everything needed for a short or prolonged stay. Breakfast is provided on the day of arrival, pots of culinary herbs grow outside the kitchen and hosts Heather and Michael Rogers thoughtfully invite their guests to pick the organically grown produce from their own garden.
Tastings and Regional Treats
Breadworks
85 The Square, Palmerston North,
ph: 06-353 6391
Dedicated artisan baker Hamish Waite uses the best ingredients and takes the time to make truly flavoursome breads and pastries. Bagels, brioches and rice bread excepted, all of his superb breads are leavened with some sourdough, which adds an extra flavour dimension. This baking is definitely worth seeking out. Open Wed-Fri 7am-3pm, Sat-Sun 7am-2pm.
Ebony Coffee Company
14-16 George St, Palmerston North,
ph: 0800 4 EBONY (0800-432 669),
email: enquiry@ebony.co.nz,
www.ebonycoffee.co.nz
The coffee beans roasted in the 12kg Probat roaster at the rear of this specialist coffee supply shop may also be sampled there. Despite the name, all but two of the roasts are ‘mid-roast’. Choose between the house or a personalised blend. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-5.30pm, Sat 10am-2pm.
Jonathan’s Spices
Ph: 06-358 1417,
email: jonathanspice@inspire.net.nz
A selection of handmade zingy condiments and ready-mixed seasonings which spice enthusiast Jonathan Ormrod uses every day. New to his range is smoked chilli powder, made from jalapeno chillies (which he smokes over manuka) and also infused into olive oil.
Organic Living
Broadtop Shopping Centre, Broadway, Terrace End, Palmerston North, ph: 06-353 0549, email: organic_living@xtra.co.nz
All wares in this ‘organic supermarket’ are certified organic unless the owner Margaret McKenzie, who has been involved in the organic movement for 23 years, personally knows the producers and their methods. Some, such as spelt and kamut flour, are unavailable elsewhere. Open Mon-Fri 9am-5.30pm, Sat 9.30am-1pm.
Palmerston North market
Cnr Albert & Main Sts, Palmerston North
An extensive selection of fresh produce, mainly vegetables, many Asian, along with rewena and Breadworks’ breads, Polonaise sausages, fish, eggs and Chinese snacks. This market is well worth the early rise. Sat 6am-10am.
Polonaise Salamis
246 Napier Rd, Palmerston North, ph:
06-354 8355, email: barnardg@clear.net.nz
Handmade with good quality meat, and no fillers, stuffed into natural casings (the salami excepted) and smoked traditionally over fruit woods for flavour, the various Polish-inspired sausages of this artisan charcutier are excellent. With no injections of water, the smoked pork loin too is properly cured. Try before you buy. Open Mon-Wed 9am-6pm, Thurs-Fri 9am-4pm.
The Gourmet’s Pantry
366 Church St, Palmerston North,
ph: 06-355 1199, email: tgp@thegourmetspantry.co.nz, www.thegourmetspantry.co.nz
Aptly named, this genuine delicatessen stocks and sources otherwise hard-to-find quality culinary items which broaden gourmets’ horizons. Where appropriate, owners Christine and Simon Friend support local artisan producers and themselves make pâtés, soups and salads. In addition, they serve simple “true deli lunches” such as a Ploughman’s composed of their well-kept cheeses and Breadworks’ bread. Open Mon-Fri 9am-5.30pm, Sat 10am-2pm.
The Harvest Pantry
Feilding Hotel, 9 Manchester Square, Feilding, ph: 025-235 7442
As well as catering, chef Veronica Jenkins makes a range of savoury preserves from locally grown, mostly organic produce. Particularly popular are her sweet chilli paste and garlic ketchup. Find them on sale behind the Feilding Hotel at Five Star Liquor, Bowen St.
The Village Wine Trader
350 Albert St, Palmerston North, ph:
06-357 0779, email: wine.trader@xtra.co.nz
As well as the wines of major producers, this boutique wine shop stocks the less common wines of smaller wineries. The whites are mostly from New Zealand while European and South American wines feature among the reds. Open Mon-Wed 10am-7pm, Thurs-Sat 10am-8pm, Sun 11am-1pm and 4pm-6pm.
Vanilla Direct
Ph: 0800 VANILLA (0800-826 455),
email: susan.maiava@xtra.co.nz
Susan Maiava imports fragrant plump organic Tahitian variety vanilla beans from the South Pacific and sells them wholesale ‘as is’ as well as extracting their essence in alcohol. Contact Susan to find the nearest retailer of her vanilla.
Waireka Honey Centre
Cnr SH 1 & Rongotea Rd, ph: 06-324 8224, email: whyhoney@xtra.co.nz,
www.shopworld.co.nz/honey
Located seven kilometres south of Sanson, this centre retails most varieties of native honeys sourced nationwide, many available to taste, along with honey fruit spreads and medicinal and cosmetic honey products. And various flavours of honey ice creams are made on the premises with a manuka honey base. Open summer 9am-6pm, winter 9am-5pm.
Other Things To Do
Gardens
Cross Hills Gardens
Rangiwahia Rd, Kimbolton, ph: 06-328 5797, email: info@crosshills.co.nz, www.crosshills.co.nz
With over 2000 varieties of rhododendrons and azaleas this seven-hectare garden is at its floral peak in October and November. Open daily Sept-May 10.30am-5pm.
Fragrant Garden
60 Port St East, Feilding, ph/fax: 06-323 4233, email: fragrantgarden@actrix.co.nz, www.fragrantgarden.co.nz
A display garden and nursery with a wealth of unusual herbs and plants rarely seen growing in New Zealand – guaranteed fascinating for both herb lovers and gardeners alike. Open daily Mon-Fri 8am-5pm, Sat-Sun 9am-5pm.
Heritage Park Rhododendron Garden
Haggerty St, Kimbolton, ph: 06-328 5970
The Heritage Park garden of the New Zealand Rhododendron Association, in which mature rhododendrons and azaleas are at their flowering peak during October and November. Open daily all year round but café open seven days Oct-Dec (or by arrangement).
Shady Acres Garden
Kellow Rd, Oroua Downs,
ph/fax: 06-329 9767
Grassy walks lead around this .8-hectare, year-round, mainly flower garden, dotted with quirky garden art. Assorted farm animals and birds to admire too. Open daily 9am-5pm (later in summer).
The Herb Farm
North Grove Rd, Ashhurst, ph: 06-326 8633
Just over one hectare of tranquil herb gardens, planted to different themes, some with a sense of humour which will delight children. Café (see page 204). Open Wed-Sun 10am-4.30pm (possibly reduced hours in winter).
Victoria Esplanade Gardens
Victoria Drive, Palmerston North
Immaculate municipal rose gardens. Open daily summer 8am-9pm (Oct-Mar), winter 9am-6pm (April-Sept).
Museums
New Zealand Rugby Museum
87 Cuba St, Palmerston North, ph/fax: 06-358 6947, email: info@rugbymuseum.co.nz, www.rugbymuseum.co.nz
Dedicated to Rugby Union football past and present, this collection of memorabilia and reference library offer much of interest even to non-followers of the game. Open Mon-Sat 10am-12pm and 1.30pm-4pm, Sun 1.30pm-4pm.
Te Manawa
396 Main St, Palmerston North, ph: 06-355 5000, email: enquiries@temanawa.co.nz, www.temanawa.co.nz
The regional museum of the Manawatu houses historical displays (Life), a gallery (Art), and interactive science exhibitions (Mind). Open daily 10am-5pm. 
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