Kitchen gardener: chervil
Chervil, a member of the parsley family, is the plant equivalent of a teenager. The merest hint that its services might be required and it will disappear faster than a college kid on a Friday night.
It’s a question of order. There’s no point thinking “Let’s have an omelette with fines herbes for dinner.” The chances of chervil being present when it’s needed are almost zilch. Far better to pick chervil when you see it and then take it from there.
There are some coping strategies. Chervil is less likely to bolt in summer if given plenty of water and planted in partial shade (it turns pink when sunburnt!). Better still, take advantage of its preference for cooler weather.
Secondly, understand that buying chervil as a ready-grown plant is never going to be the beginning of a long-term relationship. Dedicated chervil growers use a principle known as The More the Merrier that maximises the chances of finding a plant with its bag only half packed. This requires chervil to be grown from seed in situ, with re-sowings every three or four weeks. While sprinkling seeds from a packet on to a bed of seed-raising mix is hardly difficult, it takes a little organisation. Also, there are cultivars that promote themselves as slow to bolt.
Another trick: start harvesting chervil young and persist. Never fall into the trap of admiring your handiwork: “Would you look at that chervil: it’s almost as high as the house!” Instead, start snipping from the outside when no higher than 10cm – and keep at it. Chop out anything that appears to have grandiose ideas of becoming a stalk and if you see any flowers – well, this plant has already bought its one-way ticket out of the garden.
If this sounds too tricky, remember: fresh chervil’s mild anise flavour can’t be replicated and it’s not easily available. Once you are used to its wayward ways, it makes a great addition to the garden.
Philippa Swan
Ways to use chervil
Make a fine soup by simmering Agria potatoes with onions (twice as many potatoes as onions). Chop vegetables and cover with chicken stock. If you don’t have chicken stock, water will do, but add a pinch or two of salt. Cook until potatoes are soft, then purée with a hand blender. To serve, reheat and add enough chopped chervil to make the soup speckly green and taste of anise. Simmer to infuse for 10 minutes before seasoning. Ladle into bowls and drizzle each with thickened yoghurt.
A stylish, more-dash-than-cash cocktail sandwich is finely sliced white bread buttered, then smothered in chopped chervil. Place the top on the sandwich and cut into rounds with a cookie cutter. If you wish, spread mayonnaise on the outside of the rounds and dredge moist edges through chopped chervil. Be kind to your guests and advise them if they are wearing chervil on their teeth.
Place equal quantities of Champagne and cream in a saucepan and simmer until the liquid has reduced by half. Season to taste and add chopped chervil until the sauce has a fully herbaceous taste. Serve with roast chicken and mashed potatoes. Present each diner with a little jug of chervil sauce to do with as they wish. It is also perfect for grilled fish.
Add chopped chervil to softened butter with a squeeze of lemon and lots of freshly ground black pepper. Butter soldiers to accompany soft-boiled eggs.
Scoop out yolks of nearly, but not quite, hard-boiled eggs and mash with equal quantities of canned tuna. Add mayonnaise to moisten and enough chopped chervil to brighten the colour and taste of the mixture. Season to taste and push mixture back into scooped-out eggs. Place the eggs upright in shot glasses and serve with a teaspoon and accompanied by sesame-crumbed puff pastry squares.
Ruth Pretty 
|
|
