
Carrick
Charmian Smith
$-$$
Cairnmuir Rd
Bannockburn
Central Otago
Ph: 03-445 3480
www.carrick.co.nz
Licensed
Open: Brunch Sat-Sun from 10.30am;
lunch 7 days from noon; evening functions by arrangement
Cuisine rating: Eat: 8 Drink: 7.5 Look: 8 Care: 7.5
Since Carrick’s vineyard restaurant opened about a year ago, it has gained a reputation for its food and ambience. Rachel Keene, the chef, produces fresh, stylish but simple contemporary food, often making use of local produce such as pickled walnuts, or the relishes she makes from Central Otago fruit. Her menu changes frequently, supplemented by daily blackboard specials.
Typical is the bruschetta – thick slices of lightly toasted ciabatta drizzled with olive oil and topped with three plump roasted tomatoes bursting with flavour, or a pleat of paper-thin prosciutto.
The hot smoked venison carpaccio with local olive oil, parmesan crisps and salad is highly recommended – heavenly with a glass of Pinot Noir.
It’s worth asking which wines Keene recommends to accompany her dishes. An unusual mix that worked well was Rosé with the terrine of asparagus, hot and cold smoked salmon and ricotta flavoured with fennel and lemon.
All of Carrick’s wines – Pinot Gris, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and of course Pinot Noir – are available by the glass and bottle, including a few, such as the Rosé, that are only available at the cellar door.
Sophisticated architecture by Hamish Wixon – elegant proportions and clean lines – complements the style of food and wine. Indoors there’s a large open fire for winter, and views through glass panels in the floor down to the barrel cellar below.
However, dining outside on a sunny day, gazing down at the lake inlet reflecting the willows and jagged gold sluicings, with the snow-covered peaks of the Remarkables peeking through the gap between Mount Difficulty and the rest of the Carrick range, is one of the defining experiences of the Central Otago wine route.
February 2004
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