Aegean Idyll
Lauraine Jacobs
From the dizzy heights of the luxurious Astra Apartments, neatly tucked into the village of Imerovigli atop a soaring cliff face, the fiery orange sun can be seen sinking into a hazy horizon. By night, silvery sky melts into ocean. By day, the spectacular view from the resort’s deep blue pool takes in the caldera surrounded by a deep, navy-blue sea; breathtaking, rugged rock faces and clear Mediterranean skies contrast starkly with the whitewashed walls and domed churches of the surrounding villages. This may be one of the most idyllic places in the world to stay.
Santorini is a mystical, magical island. I was lucky enough to visit with Rosemary Barron, a respected British food writer and teacher first lured to Santorini more than 30 years ago as a student on an archaeology dig. Barron became enamoured of Santorini’s food and wine, and her career changed direction. She set up a small cooking school in the ’80s in the village of Oia and now runs fun-filled, week-long trips of culinary exploration on the island. Along the way, she has become a world-recognised authority on Greek cuisine, ancient and modern.
With expert guidance, we set out on a week of exploration that took in antiquities, geology and geography, winery visits, shopping, lazy days spent relaxing and swimming in the crystal-clear waters of the Mediterranean and, of course, endless feasting on the simple, delicious food in tavernas, bars and restaurants.
The most southern of the Cyclades group of islands, Santorini has endured repeated volcanic eruptions over thousands of years. They have shaped the island, formed the spectacular cliffs and buried whole villages that are now anthropologists’ delights. Santorini locals are fiercely and proudly independent, considering themselves unique among the people of Greece because of their dramatic, rugged island - a far-flung, isolated mound of volcanic lava. The famous villages cling to the tops of cliffs that plunge dramatically for 400 metres or more down to the sea. From these heights, massive ocean liners look like tiny toys in a designer swimming pool.
Volcanic soil can be very fertile, but in Santorini the soil is thin, the climate lacks rain and the only crops are mini tomatoes, fava peas, a few vegetables, and grape varietals for Santorini’s unique wines. The deep ocean yields a diet of fresh fish, but nearby Crete supplies most of the island’s fresh food. The island’s economy is built on the half-million tourists who visit annually and are hard to avoid.
Our first day or two was spent basking leisurely in the sun by the Astra’s pool. Each day we began with typical Greek breakfasts of thick creamy yoghurt and aromatic honey, fresh sweet breads, fruit and thick, dark coffee. After breakfast we strolled along the winding paths through a maze of hillside houses and apartments to eat at local tavernas where the fare was simple, fresh and satisfying. Santorini does that to you. We really didn’t want to leave the dazzling hospitality of the Astra, with its stunning views, soporific atmosphere and ever-helpful manager, George Karayiannis.
 Most of Santorini’s tourist visitors tend to arrive in the aforementioned ships, and spend a mere half or full day wandering through the main village of Thira, where the gaudy tourist shops glisten with expensive jewellery and tacky souvenirs.
Loads of little cafés serve drinks, coffee and snacks that vary in quality, and the best thing about most of them is the view they offer. But, with plenty of time and Barron as our savvy guide, we were soon into an exciting programme of discovery that took us far from the tourist traps.
Although the western side of the island is perched atop the caldera and can only be explored on foot, thanks to the maze of steps and tortuous alley-ways that wind through the villages, the eastern aspect of Santorini slopes gently dow 
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