What to do with....capers & caperberries
Fiona Smith
Capers, the tiny olive-green buds of a Mediterranean shrub, can be found adding their distinctly acidic, tangy flavour to a range of traditional dishes from around that region. Only eaten preserved (usually pickled but also salted), capers are graded in size, with the smallest being most prized. The buds are picked before they open into flowers, but if left they will mature into oval-shaped fruit that is also pickled, developing a less intense flavour. These caperberries are particularly prized in Spain and are delicious eaten on their own as you would an olive. When it comes to choosing caperberries, smaller is usually better as the very large ones can have a gritty texture.
Capers are an essential ingredient in many dishes including tapenade, steak or salmon tartare, caponata (eggplant antipasto), salsa verde and ravigote (vinaigrette with capers, chopped onion and herbs such as parsley, chervil, tarragon and chives).
Try these ideas
For the wonderfully fiery, classic Italian sauce puttanesca, heat 4 tablespoons of olive oil over a medium heat and then cook 3 chopped cloves of garlic and 3 tablespoons of chopped parsley for 3-4 minutes. Add 2 x 400g cans of chopped tomatoes, 1 tablespoon capers, ½ cup pitted black olives, 1 chopped red chilli and 1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano. Simmer for 10 minutes and then add 40g/2 tablespoons of drained anchovies and salt and pepper to taste. Toss with cooked spaghetti and serve. Serves 4.
Toss together a side salad made up of grilled red peppers and caperberries or capers and dress with sherry vinaigrette to complement strongly flavoured and oily fish like tuna, mackerel and salmon.
Make fresh tartare sauce for your next fish feast and you will be rewarded by its fresh, creamy flavour. In a blender or small food processor, mix 1 whole egg with 1 egg yolk, ¼ teaspoon salt and 1 tablespoon lemon juice. With the motor running, drizzle in 100mls olive oil and 100mls canola oil. Transfer to a bowl and fold in 1 tablespoon each of finely chopped spring onion, gherkin, capers and parsley. Makes 1 cup.
For a crunchy version of the Tuscan salad panzanella, combine chargrilled bread with some tomatoes, grilled and skinned peppers, capers or caperberries, anchovies, olives and fresh basil leaves, dressed before serving with plenty of garlicky vinaigrette.
For an easy rémoulade combine ½ cup good-quality mayonnaise with 1 tablespoon chopped capers, 2 teaspoons lemon juice and 1 teaspoon of Dijon mustard. It is delicious combined with grated celeriac and served with ham, smoked or cured meats and chicken.
Tonnato is the classic Italian sauce of tuna with anchovies, lemon mayonnaise, capers, and/or salt. Absolutely wonderful over cold veal and also with chicken and turkey. Try something a little different by making the tonnato sauce to serve as a dip with caperberries.
Capers have a natural affinity with mutton, but also work well with chops and other fatty cuts of lamb.
Caperberries add unusual interest to antipasto or tapas, and their stalks make them the perfect, easy-to-eat snack.
Take some thin strips of prosciutto or good-quality anchovies and wrap them around caperberries for quick and easy hors d’oeuvres.
Oyster & Caper Fritters
In a bowl combine ½ cup flour (or ¼ cup flour and ¼ cup fine cornmeal),
½ teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon pepper.
Add 85g drained and halved smoked oysters, 1 small grated onion, 2 tablespoons each finely chopped parsley and chives, 1 tablespoon capers, 1 lightly beaten egg and ¼ cup milk. Gently combine. Lightly oil a hot barbecue plate or frying pan, and cook heaped teaspoons of batter for about 1 minute each side. Serve hot with aïoli, salsa or mayonnaise. Makes 16.
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