Every Cook's Dream
Ray McVinnie
The first time I saw Podere Finerri it was in the depths of winter and I was completely unprepared for its astounding beauty. Coming from New Zealand where we know all about spectacular scenery, I thought that no new landscape could surprise me.
While I had been nervous that the Tuscan countryside might be a picture-postcard cliché, Finerri’s 360-degree view across rolling hills with the muted mauves, ochres, jade greens and roses of winter was breathtaking, recalling the backgrounds of the Renaissance paintings which drew on this landscape.
I had come to visit Malcolm Ayres, a New Zealand art historian now lecturing at the University of Siena, and Daniela di Cesare, an architect from Naples. Perched on a hill and now transformed into a home with six rentable apartments, the rambling honey-coloured brick and stone Podere (farmhouse) Finerri began life as early as the 17th century on the local estate. It is not a grand palazzo but indeed a homely farmhouse, originally built without a plan straight on to Tuscan clay, with rooms added as they were needed.
Seeking a life to suit two people from different cultures, with separate careers and a growing family, Malcolm and Daniela had looked for a property which could potentially be a comfortable but income-earning base. Tuscany, or more specifically the Crete Senesi, 40 minutes from Siena, with its beautiful landscape and rich cultural and historical associations, was perfect.
 After a long search and arduous years of restoration, Podere Finerri is finally complete. A tribute to the architectural skill of Daniela and the couple’s sense of style and hard work, the result is a welcoming and comfortable fusion of traditional and modern features which preserve the integrity of the old house. Use of old farmhouse doors, recycled marble sinks, modern kitchens built in the traditional style with features like charming curtained sink benches teamed with stylish touches like new arches and staircases, has offset the historical in a stunning contemporary environment.
When I returned in late summer, the subtle winter tints had been replaced by ever-changing browns and golds of cut wheat fields and ploughed land, which brought to mind the robust textures and colours of thick tweeds.
With many towns and villages within easy reach of Finerri, simply immersing oneself in daily life is enjoyment enough. A lazy breakfast on the terrace, morning coffee in Asciano which is the nearest town, lunch in a traditional restaurant, a walk through the countryside, a rest, a swim in Finerri’s pool, and then dinner is my idea of being on holiday.
 But there’s more. Etruscan tombs are just 10 minutes’ walk from Finerri with excellent Etruscan museums in Asciano and neighbouring Chiusi. The town of Arezzo not only has prized Piero della Francesca frescoes in its church, but also a monthly antiques fair which takes over the town. Close to the hill town of Montalcino is Sant’Antimo, the austerely elegant 12th-century Romanesque abbey where you can hear the monks perform Gregorian chants and then go in to Montalcino for a restorative glass or two of the region’s celebrated Brunello di Montalcino wine.
The area is also dotted with hot spas and springs which have been used for centuries. The main piazza of the village of Bagno Vignoni is actually a large thermal pool.
As a cook I found Tuscany’s legendary food particularly enjoyable. A market seemed to be taking place each day in one of the towns within striking distance, where we were able to buy local delicacies from the extensive catalogue on offer.
Tuscan cooking is sometimes thought of as simple to the point of austerity. But it would be a mistake to think of Tuscan food as poor. You may not find luxurious dishes like those of Bologna in this area but the presence of many high-quality ingredients like T 
Photography by Kieran Scott
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| Crostini Di Fegatini (Chicken Livers On Toast) |
This very traditional Tuscan antipasto is like a coarse chicken liver pâté on toast.
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| Fagioli Con Salsicce (Beans & Sausages) |
For this earthy, delicious Tuscan take on sausages and beans, use any pure pork sausages that are mildly flavoured with garlic and pepper or make the following easy skinless version.
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| Stufato Di Calamari E Scampi (Calamari & Scampi Stew) |
One forgets that Tuscany has a coastline and a rich seafood culinary tradition, so that even well inland, we ate very good fish dishes.
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| Pollo Alla Senese (Sienese Chicken) |
This is my version of a Tuscan dish which usually uses pheasant or guinea fowl. While it lacks a gamey flavour, I find chicken works just as well.
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| Zuccotto |
This is the dome-shaped cake which is said to resemble both the dome of the world-renowned cathedral in Florence, the Duomo.
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