Merediths Restaurant
Toni Mason
365 Dominion Rd, Auckland,
ph: 09-623 3140
Dinner Mon-Sat, Lunch Fri
$$$$
Reviewed in Cuisine Issue 126, January 2008
It seemed a long time between stints at the stoves when chef Michael Meredith opened his own first restaurant in September. He left The Grove, where he established his already notable name, in February before opening this tiny jewel on the otherwise lacklustre, though lively, Dominion Rd strip of cheap eateries.
And it’s a lengthy wait between bookings too, with keen diners queueing for the 28 seats in the two small dining rooms, one with a view into the open kitchen; both with a restrained elegance in the plush, pearly walls and white linen tablecloths, dark floors and banquettes, and glittering chandeliers.
The menu is likewise modestly sized but packed with punch – five entrées and mains apiece, three vegetarian dishes (with a choice of entrée or main sizes) and three sides. Pleasingly the dishes aren’t laboriously described on the menu – there’s room for surprises. So the brandade – a creamy purée of salt cod – listed with the entrée of smoked salmon arrived as warm little fritters, contrasting with the cool salmon and candied fennel, and the chillier lemon sorbet, with watercress oil and a scatter of salmon roe adding extra zest – a delicious ensemble of flavours and textures.
The tart was a crisp raft of flat pastry bearing rich, almost meaty, caramelised onion, artichoke, zucchini, goat’s curd, chorizo and calamari, with a sticky balsamic smudge on the plate.
The divine duck main came with velvety cauliflower purée and a splash of vanilla foam flecked with golden raisins and topped with crisp streaks of pancetta. And the confit pork, accompanied by poached fillet and discs of black pudding, had been transformed to utter creaminess.
In the desserts you can see that Meredith has made some forays into the laboratory. The poached pineapple with liquorice and coconut ice-creams came with coconut “soil”, his dryish-textured, melt-in-the-mouth reworking of ice-cream, and magic rum “pearls” like fat, slightly effervescent grapes. The lemon gratin, a delicate and delicious brulée, had an intense rhubarb sauce and beetroot.
The compact wine list, designed by Cameron Douglas, who recently became New Zealand’s first Master Sommelier (see page 39), is full of great finds, with about 15 choices by the glass – served in stylish Spiegelau stemware. The personable staff are well versed in the sommelier’s matches, so, for example, the Martín Códax Albariño, a crisp Spanish white, is recommended with the salmon, and Envoy Chardonnay, a new label from the producers of Spy Valley, with the pork.
Meredith’s food could in some cases be classed as deconstructed, but doesn’t stray too far from the basics. While cherry-picking ideas from current trends, he has developed his own style of modern New Zealand cuisine, a synthesis of various flavours meeting harmoniously on the plate. At once exciting yet real food.
It’s still a new restaurant, but already winning favour, and as it evolves we want to be there. We’ll be sure to book ahead. 
|
|
 |
 |
|
|
