It’s a sophisticated setting with luxurious royal-blue booths and gold chairs adding a touch of glamour to the slick concrete walls. A simple arch through to the open bar and kitchen is super-elegant in its sparseness and simplicity. There is a choice of set menus, 3 courses or 5 courses, of chef Fraser McCarthy’s considered cooking, which makes it one of the best-value dining experiences you’ll gain for the price. A kawakawa sauce paired with smoked eel is a highlight – the sharpness of the sauce and the garnish of small ice plant leaves tempering the beautifully cooked fish makes for some delightful eating. Co-owner and manager, Shannon Vandy (pictured with Fraser), runs a quietly efficient floor, with service never anything less than attentive. The wine list is small, tight and perfectly formed.

IN BRIEF Elegant dining perched atop Khyber Pass