‘Not so much an Italian restaurant and bar, but a New Zealand one whose influences spread back to Italy,’ says the menu note. And what a menu it is, a lengthy triumph of the joys of Italian-style feasting with a drinks list to comfort anyone. With food that’s genuine, generous and honest it’s easy to imagine popping in for a quick aperitif and a platter of cured meats and staggering out hours later. Everything comes in hugely generous portions such as the stellar, tender handmade agnolotti filled with creamy housemade ricotta with slithers of pickled squash and crunchy sage amaretti, plus toasted pumpkin seeds and crispy fried sage leaves. It’s rustic yet elegant, simple yet full of clever contrasts. For dessert you’ll be hard pushed to go past the giant crisp-shelled cannoli just bursting with tangy lemon-laced ricotta.

IN BRIEF Generous dining in the heart of the city