This Mediterranean-inspired dish uses the acid in tomatoes to ‘cook’ the fish, resulting in a lovely mellow juice.
Recipe Tag: Aaron McLean Photography
Fragrant and fresh with Thai/ Vietnamese flavours, you could definitely stir some coconut cream through the fish before serving if you liked. For a more hearty all-in-one salad, you could stir the rice through with the vegetables.
I love a pickled fish salad in the summer – it is so easy and looks and tastes great. This one has a simple marinade and a barbecued version of the classic panzanella. It is very important to mix the bread through just before serving as you don’t want it completely soggy.
The lovely Joulep café in Shiraz serves an unusual saffron latte, a combination that is surprising and very good so I have used it here in a saffron cake with a coffee cream. I made a tall celebration-style cake which serves 12 but you can easily half the sponge mix to make one shorter cake for 6 people. If you do that, reduce the coffee cream only by a third (2 eggs, 150g icing sugar, 200g butter, 11⁄2 tablespoons coffee), so you still have plenty of icing. The sponge needs the moisture of the coffee cream and liqueur, so if you don’t want the alcohol, use weak coffee or even orange juice to drizzle over the layers.
The saffron toffee is a little tricky because the saffron makes it such a lovely orange colour that it’s hard to tell when the sugar starts to caramelise. Keep a close eye on it and you can tell by the smell, or test little bits on the paper as it bubbles. If the weather is muggy, make the toffee just before you need it. Of course, it is not essential to the cake if that all seems too hard!
Yoghurt dips are an important part of Persian meals. One of my favourites is an eggplant dip with walnuts, topped with yoghurt or kashk – fermented, dried milk whey. Kashk, which can be found in Middle Eastern grocery stores, has a pungent, sour cheesy taste when rehydrated; it is unique but you can make an approximation by combining sour cream, crème fraîche or yoghurt with strong cheese such as parmesan or a blue. If you don’t fancy that, just use plain yoghurt.
Normally when I make mayonnaise I prefer to use olive oil, but here the delicacy of the oysters is lost if using strongly flavoured oil. I’ve become a huge fan of rapeseed oil, locally grown and produced by The Good Oil, and that is what I have used here. It’s not necessary to use an egg yolk here to emulsify the mayonnaise but it does remove the risk of it splitting. Feel free to top the bruschetta with more oysters as I have done.
Tahchin is a baked rice dish with a lovely crunchy outside. It is most often made with chicken or lamb but this is a vegetable version inspired by a delicious caramelised carrot and rice dish I ate in Tehran. Spicy foods are uncommon in Iran but I like the kick of a little harissa in this recipe.
Old-school curried eggs seem to be having a come-back; I’ve been to a few parties recently where they were served and they disappeared in a flash. They are even better with the addition of a few extras, making this more of a swanky breakfast in a mobile form. And to those of you who think that potato and bread is a carb overload, I just say ‘shush’.