SCORE: 17.5/20

At Gilt, Josh and Helen Emett’s glittering downtown venue that pays culinary homage to the classics, the drinks list is leather-bound and 15 pages long. That could be overwhelming. It’s not. The list is so logically organised that those who know what they’re looking for will easily be able to navigate it. For those who don’t, well, there’s help on hand from staff who know their stuff. Besides, when every bottle is a beauty, you can’t go wrong. This brasserie manages to set a tone both glamorous and casual. Imagine a movie in which Audrey Hepburn sashays her way into an upmarket Hollywood restaurant. Stylish, beautifully appointed and classy. There’s a mix of seating, a fabulous bar and alongside food that would wow the crowds in a bustling New York brasserie the incredible drinks list is the talking point. There’s wine by the glass, carafe, half bottle and bottle (including local stars and many French entrants, helpfully divided by region), a spirits portfolio that could fill a warehouse, cocktail lists and some interesting beers from outside of the usual box. The restaurant also runs a ‘winemaker in residence’ programme once a month, where diners can meet the maker over lunch and a tasting flight.