If there is one New Zealand chef whose name brings an instant smile to everybody’s face it’s Rex Morgan. He clearly qualifies for our Legend Award, meeting all criteria that deserve this celebration of an outstanding hospitality career. He is an undisputed brilliant chef, a tireless supporter of New Zealand produce, a fantastic mentor and teacher to many, a leader in incorporating traditional Māori food into contemporary cuisine, and the recipient of numerous accolades and awards. Most importantly, he is always tremendous fun and a very humble individual completely without a trace of ego.

Rex (Te Arawa, Ngāi Tahu) grew up in Rotorua and has early memories of sitting in the back of the family car on trips to the local Awahou marae, surrounded by the pavlovas his mum baked for every important celebration and gathering. It was in this marae kitchen, with a tea towel in hand, that he first learned the discipline of cooking for large groups by carrying out the menial tasks – experiences that sowed the seed for a culinary career and the introduction to indigenous ingredients and customs of his whakapapa.

After training at Waikato Polytechnic he was mentored at the Grosvenor Motor Inn kitchen by chef Steve Morris. Heading to Europe for his OE, Rex worked in the Berne Hotel, Switzerland, learning the precision, skills and exactness required for cooking in a highly charged European kitchen. In the UK he joined New Zealand chef Peter Thornley at Blake’s Hotel in London, a highly fashionable contemporary kitchen.

Rex’s loyalty became evident on his return to New Zealand as his career path included working again with Steve Morris at Huka Lodge in Taupō, and another stint with Peter Thornley at Te Papa’s Icon restaurant. He headed to the kitchens of Christchurch’s Le Bon Bolli, where he met his wife Wendy, a superb cook in her own right. Then to Wellington to the eclectic Bouquet Garni, before the pair opened Citron, where Wendy ran front of house in the tiny wooden building while Rex created and served a dégustation menu of perfect fare to much acclaim.

In 2009 the Morgans sold Citron, Rex moving to Boulcott Street Bistro as a partner and head chef. There he cooked the classic dishes, adding his favourite ingredients such as horopito for seasoning and karengo to enhance salmon and fish, while maintaining the restaurant’s established standards. Almost 40% of Boulcott’s diners order the beef eye fillet with red wine jus, béarnaise sauce and hand-cut chips, and Rex adopted this dish as his own, insisting on procuring the finest ingredients, adding watercress, and cooking everything to order for the entire time of his tenure there. To this day, Boulcott’s chefs still make that béarnaise at least twice a night during service.

Rex is one of a mere handful of chefs who can create truly life-changing experiences. When asked by the late Hon Jim Anderton to plan and cook the gala dinner at the Primary Industries Summit in 2007 in Christchurch, Rex inspired the team at the conference centre to produce a dinner that was outstanding. He sourced seasonal, locally produced ingredients to tell the Canterbury story through food, presenting a menu of fresh asparagus, local salmon, delicate spring lamb, and strawberries picked that day for dessert, all matched to locally produced wine. Industry attendees were so excited about this dinner that they claimed it was the key factor for a change in their thinking – they began to see chefs as partners in building export value and creating a national identity. Several local chefs still refer to this dinner as a notable example of the shift toward regional New Zealand cuisine.

That idea of linking farmers, fishers, producers and Māori food knowledge with high-end hospitality has expanded, and it’s a thread that runs through all Rex’s work and his influence on our culinary scene. With his gentle and firm guidance, mentoring and teaching with concern and care, he has earned respect, admiration and loyalty from staff, many apprentices and all who have been fortunate enough to work with him.

Renowned New Zealand chef and seafood expert Martin Bosley looks upon Rex as a ‘brother from another mother’, and he explains what he calls “the magic of Rex”. The pair are firm mates and have worked together at many big events. Martin says, “Rex is a quiet genius who has never been anything else than a working chef. It’s a beautiful thing to see him work. One minute he’s giggling and joking, then he steps up to the task with laser-like focus and produces stunning food that’s controlled, precise and faultless. In charge of a large function he can pull the team together to get 500 perfect plates out in less than 18 minutes. And the ingredients on those plates will all be there for a reason and all will be memorably delicious.”

Rex’s accolades include Chef of the Year in 2001, an appointment as a senior consultant chef to Air New Zealand, and one of the first lifetime honorees as Beef + Lamb New Zealand Platinum Ambassador chefs in 2008. Beef + Lamb’s foodservice manager Lisa Moloney says he is an exceptional ambassador, always weaving together his style of using indigenous flavours, classic techniques and a deep respect for provenance. She explained it is a privilege to work alongside Rex and see the passion, generosity and authenticity he brings to everything he does.

Sarah Meikle, who has worked with Rex in her roles in tourism in Wellington and Wellington on a Plate, regards him as a true tāonga of our culinary scene. She’s constantly astounded at how he brings food to life, mucks in at any event and admires the way this “loveable rogue” champions his roots constantly. And who can forget his 2012 Burger Wellington winning entry, the T-Rex Burger?

Today, Rex and Wendy live and work in Christchurch, but they’re far from retired. They’re involved in catering gigs and Wendy says Rex’s passion for the industry never wanes. He encourages young Māori chefs, working hard to further their understanding of Kai Māori. He consults, travels to join other like-minded cooks at special events such as the annual Tohunga Tūmau, promoting indigenous foods and the manaakitanga that connects all New Zealanders. Rex is a very special chef with an unmistakable wairua that makes him such a special legend of Aotearoa.