SCORE: 17/20

At a time when the risk of opening a new restaurant has never been so real, it is heartening to see this inspirational venue emerging. Our 2025 New Restaurant of the Year is serving a tight menu in an intimate space that offers modern fare by a thoroughly modern Australian chef, Thom Millott, who has reversed our chef exodus to that country and happily cooks on this side of the Tasman. With only 20-odd seats and a modest décor, it is the passion of the small team and the undeniable skills of the chef that have caught our eye. Taking inspiration from the Australian-New Zealand barbie, all bakes and roasts are superbly cooked in a Josper woodfired oven, and everything is well considered including treats such as claypot octopus rice with kombu, and Conscious Valley lamb rack with cabbage and fennel. Thom has earned his stripes at some impressive Aussie establishments including Rockpool, Poly and Porteño and back in 2021, as co-owner with partner Tashie Piper, he opened Amok and we were watching their incredible creativity with awe. Now, with a new venture – the name that translates from the Latin prefix meaning to surpass or go beyond – this restaurant is bringing nostalgia to modern food and is one to watch.