SCORE: 18/20

Take an unbelievably beautiful location and a team of people who are genuine, approachable and passionate about looking after the land and you get one of the most special experiences in Aotearoa. This is not just a restaurant, it’s a much bigger story that begins with a two-hour drive across the station so that the 10 diners who come to enjoy The Chef’s Table are immersed in this powerful landscape. Then, perched atop the valley, settle in for some exceptional food by Jack Cashmore, a clever and authentic chef. The 10-course dégustation menu, drawn from the property, features wild food and foraged finds, beautifully presented. On our visit, a stash of wood ear mushrooms discovered that very day was celebrated alongside tender- as-it-comes venison. But we also relished savoury baked custard delicately infused with horseradish and topped with Whanganui roe; baked Jerusalem artichokes grown in the garden with a sauce that featured rose petals and white truffle from Whanganui; and sweet leeks cooked whole on the grill and drizzled with a preserved lemon and buttermilk sauce. An out-of-this-world occasion that should move to the top of your bucket list immediately.