Traditional pastry chefs were drilled that eggs and dairy were the essential building blocks of baking – literally the glue that held the recipe together – crucial to get flaky laminated pastries, light, airy sponges or silky, rich custard. But it is not the only way, proves award-winning chef Philip Khoury. These recipes are the result of years of rethinking everything – what gives structure, what builds richness, what creates lift and tenderness – without relying on eggs, dairy or highly processed alternatives. The ingredients he uses are the same pantry staples that have been used in kitchens forever – flour, sugar, cornflour and oils – the difference is in how he uses them. My attempts at vegan baking have been lumpen and leaden, remarkable only for their good intentions. So when Philip says he’s all about unlocking new ways to create flavour, texture and indulgence, it’s that indulgence factor that makes me take notice. Take a look at his mango lemongrass tart, yuzu meringue pie, mushroom truffle quiche or courgette galette and I’ll wager you’ll be sighing with joy not disappointment. Do you like your chocolate mousse rich and dense, light and bubbly or velvety? Three different versions have you covered here, all packed with essential chocolateyness. If you want to know why his butterless croissants are so perfectly laminated, or his sponges light as a whisper, all the science is there and it is simply explained. If you just want to bake, then meticulous instructions lead you through all the steps. “But,” I hear you say, “I’m not vegan.” Well, neither am I but when something is good – flaky, buttery and creamy (without the butter or cream), crisp or tender, moist and flavoursome – it speaks for itself. TRACY WHITMEY