Capitol offers seasonally based, comforting European-inspired food, cooked with skill. Once a corner shop, the original windows, large black-and-white floor tiles and tightly packed tables impart a pleasing bistro ambience and character. A solid wine list, some local craft beers and a few contemporary cocktails get you started, before a saunter through a selection of bistro classics. Some treats pop up in the daily specials, such as potato and porcini soup – with the porcini foraged locally on Mt Victoria, who can resist? Creamy crumbed lambs brains are enriched with burnt butter, with the crisp bite of celeriac and fennel remoulade cutting through the richness. The enduring popularity of Capitol is testament to the combination of delicious food, well-chosen wines and warm professional service consistently delivered.

IN BRIEF Smart and delicious neighbourhood bistro dining