Chameleon is the perfect place to shake off the aura of dining in a hotel restaurant. There’s nothing complacent about the place and maybe the unusual installation of silver hands protruding from the wall is intended to shake up your expectations. Dishes are larger than an entrée but smaller than a main, so there’s a good opportunity to sample a few, and the menu options are carefully and thoughtfully explained. Confident and informed about the extensive wine list – every one available by the glass –servers suggest skillful pairings to enhance Paul Limacher’s refined yet understated food. Unconventional touches appear; whitebait flash-fried individually and teamed with bacon, shallot and tomato, wasabi peas crusting the rim of a beef loin.

IN BRIEF Stylish hotel restaurant with a sprinkle of special