The most memorable travel experiences create a true connection to people and place, and for Cuisine readers there must always be something delicious in that mix. An invitation to visit Australia’s Limestone Coast had me wondering about that all-important element of deliciousness. Stories of the wineries and restaurants of the Barossa Valley abound whenever travel conversations turn toward South Australia, but culinary adventures do not seem to be high on the radar when you look to the south east of the state. Well, not anymore. Let me give you just a little taste of this incredibly generous region, where spectacular natural wonders provide the backdrop for more than 40 fabulous cellar doors and a plethora of artisan producers, farmers, growers and hospitality professionals who create a diverse menu and a food-and-drink trail well worth more than just one visit.
An Unforgettable Retreat
I touched down in Mount Gambier and 30 minutes later, to my surprise, I was almost in Victoria, but not quite. Warrawindi Escapes is a fifth-generation regenerative farm located right alongside the Victorian border, but firmly and proudly entrenched on South Australian land that started out growing tobacco in the 1880s. These days, owners Alison and David Galpin offer a luxurious and cleverly designed retreat tucked away within their working farm with panoramic views that frame the chemical-free paddocks and tranquil bushscapes. Families of kangaroos, healthy beautiful cows, sheep and abundant bird life, including the occasional crane, flourish on this stunning property that offers an opportunity to disconnect, breathe it all in and be enveloped by the scope and size of its natural setting. A ‘sunset and stars’ experience hosted within the depths of the property will remain one of the most beautiful barbecues I have had the privilege to attend. As the sun dipped, an electric blue sky gave way to sparkling stars (real ones, not Michelin) while local rosé, Alison’s homemade dips and nibbles and home-grown lamb chops cooked over an open fire were not only a first glimpse of south-eastern deliciousness, but also a taste of the generosity, authenticity and pride of place that became a constant at every stop along the way. warrawindiescapes.com.au
Penola bound
Cindy Bunt, owner of The Post & Rail in Penola, is the woman that I would most like to be when I grow up, combining all of her passions in a gorgeous old heritage-listed building that she has turned into a cooking/gardening/art school, café and retail nursery. A stroll around her garden unearths seedlings that are rare and raised with so much love that I suspect Cindy struggles to let them find their new homes. She’s full of energy, funny, notorious for pranking her regular customers and the food is just glorious. From the scrumptious chocolate pavs to Grandpa’s blood plum cake to sensational sangers, frittatas and cinnamon scrolls hot out of the oven, this little spot is bursting at the seams with artisanal products and unique gift ideas and an absolute haven for a cuppa while you smell Cindy’s home-grown roses. thepostandrail.com.au
Introducing The ‘Oltana’
Heidi Boyd, co-owner of Confido Coonawarra, says she happily traded accountancy for steelcaps and a chainsaw when she and husband Dave purchased a farm property that just happened to come with more than 1,600 olive trees. They now produce a stunning range of oils and beauty and skin products that are made with exquisite care. Their Pure Castile soap bar is the gentlest soap you will find and their outstanding olive oils are available in bottles and casks. The recently opened tasting room presented one of the most interesting olive oil tastings I’ve come across as Heidi took me through a direct comparison cleverly designed to identify good-quality olive oil. And you heard it first here… ‘Oltanas’ are all set to be the new buzz when word gets out about Heidi’s hand-picked dry salt-cured olives, perfect for platters or a handy snack. confidocoonawarra.com.au
An Aussie Icon
The iconic Wynns Coonawarra Estate logo was firmly planted in my brain from a young age as my parents developed a healthy taste for dry red table wine in the 70s. I was even allowed the occasional tiny nip in a glass of lemonade! So it was a thrill to walk through the doors of this historical estate to meet winemaker Sarah Pidgeon who has been crafting wines at Wynns for more than 27 years. This incredible venue is a perfect place to gain intricate knowledge of the region, the fascinating story of its natural soil phenomenon, ‘the terra rossa’, and its cool, crisp climate – all contributing factors to wines that are among Australia’s finest for their richness, intensity, flavour and longevity. Enjoy a glass or two on comfy couches in the Back Vintage wine store or enjoy a variety of tastings on offer including their two flagship reds, John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon and Michael Shiraz. Once you’re done, if you have a few hours up your sleeve step out onto the Coonawarra Wineries Walking Trail and visit six local wineries in just under five kilometres. wynns.com.au
What Are You Waiting For?
The Coonawarra community struck gold when chef Paul Stone (ex Supernormal) made the jump years ago with partner Matilda Innes to head to their region and support the family business Ottelia restaurant and winery. The result is a destination restaurant and tasting room that is a serious celebration of everything wonderful about the Limestone Coast. My snacks included a sensational carrot cracker with masala-spiced carrot purée, brick pastry with whipped ricotta and quince, the now legendary Ottelia ramen-stuffed chicken wing and the duck rillette toast with gentleman’s relish. I’m embarrassed to say I also managed to polish off Paul’s epic chicken salad with roasted chilli oil, wakame and wood ears followed by superbly barbecued asparagus and a fab sweet-savoury black sesame cheesecake. A cheeky Nebbiolo has recently joined the Ottelia wine siblings that are all deliciously showcased on the menu and in the tasting room. The sourdough pizza has become a destination unto itself, but unfortunately, I couldn’t fit one in. If you are a foodie and Coonawarra bound, this is a must-visit lunch spot. ottelia.com.au
Illuminating Exploration
When in Penola a visit to Raidis Estate is also a must. You’ll see firsthand how a family that has lived and worked in the Coonawarra region for more than forty years has developed a sustainable approach that results in the most elegant wines served in a super-casual and welcoming atmosphere. Also, you’ll probably meet Steven and Emma Raidis who love nothing more than to hangout and oversee their substantial indoor and outdoor spaces while guiding tastings that are one of a kind. In particular, there’s a distinguished tasting experience that delves into how their finest reserve wine evolves with aeration time, without the need for a long decant. This is the only experience of its kind in Australia, allowing you to witness the wine’s transformation from zero minutes of aeration up to 240 minutes. And, who can say no to pies and wine? Flaky pastry, hearty fillings and cool-climate wines are another tasting experience well worth exploring along with their casual family-friendly menu. raidis.com.au
A True Sense Of Place
The opportunity to dine at an outstanding on-farm restaurant within a 5000-acre property with over 4000 full-blood wagyu cattle onsite is one not to be missed and the resulting sense of the enormity of it all is extraordinary. Chef Mark Wright and the team at Mayura Station in Millicent (just 45 minutes from Mount Gambier) are serving up serious flavour using the property’s astounding beef. A seat at the chef’s table around the all-important grill is the best seat in the house, where you can expect an impressive four-course head-to-tail set menu utilising the farm’s award-winning beef with its exceptional marbling and sensationally sweet, nutty, buttery flavour. A range of thoughtfully selected local wines will elevate your journey or perhaps a gin martini made from the purest of water from the region’s famous Blue Lake. Make sure you ask the chef to show you the special mix that feeds their prized and tasty herd. mayurastation.com
An Authentic Family Table
Family and tradition are proud pillars here at the second-oldest winery within the Coonawarra region, which became home to the DiGiorgio family in 2002. You can feel the emotion and immense pride as you take a tour of their famous terra rossa soil profile set within their 100-year-old vines and where you can see up close the textures and rich colours that make this clay-rich soil an important contribution to the region’s unique flavour. I urge you to time your visit to coincide with one of their highly anticipated pasta classes where you will join Anna DiGiorgio and her 88-year-old nonna to make and cook your own, followed by a sit-down lunch with the passionate and generous DiGiorgio family. With their remarkable wines available to taste and takeaway, and their spectacular platters and bites, this is a rare opportunity to be included in the magic of family and Australian/Italian tradition, creating memories for years to come. digiorgio.com.au
Sparkling Splendour
Peta Baverstock is our kind of woman with a personality as sparkling as her passion and determination to create momentous Australian sparkling wines. At POPO, her charming tasting outlet in Penola’s Old Post Office, Peta showcases not only her own wine label Cuvée-Co Wines and her classic expression of sparkling styles, but also curates beautiful art, crafts and assorted bits of gorgeousness in her unique space. It’s also a bit of a family affair with Peta’s grandmother being the inspiration for Ada’s Prosecco, the Fizzy Issy Non-Vintage Chardonnay named for her niece, and her award-winning Cuvée Nessa Blanc de Blancs devoted to Mum. It’s only open on Fridays between 3pm and 7pm, so make a beeline for the Fizzy Friday Spritzer Specials on the first Friday of every month. Renowned for its red table wines, the Limestone Coast offering is made all the more interesting by Peta’s sparkling spirit. cuveecowines.com
Food From The Soul
You may have to look twice to find this tucked-away Mount Gambier hall lovingly transformed by chef Kirby Shearing into Elementary by Soul Co, an extraordinary five-course tasting experience in a modern, spacious and yet intimate venue. A large chef’s table places Kirby centre stage as he prepares his creations for a menu that he says cannot and will not be defined by any particular cuisine, in a space that stays fluid, responsive and true to the ever-shifting rhythms of hospitality. The menu is a curated snapshot of everything that he loves with the local food-and-drink story told in an extremely relaxed and personal way. Kirby’s observations on the where and the why of each carefully assembled dish pair with his clever wine and sake pairings to demonstrate a genuine passion for and understanding of the people behind his menu. With only 20 seats at his table I’d suggest you book ahead. soulprojects.com.au
Adelaide Bound Sandstone Sizzle
Of course you want to spend at least a couple of delicious moments in Adelaide when in South Australia and Arkhé by Jake Kellie (ex-head chef at Burnt Ends, Singapore) deserves more than a few of them. Slick, casual and buzzing with energy, this open-flame restaurant delivers high on flavour and smart-casual comfort. My memorable menu moments were the Gazander, Pacific and Merimbula rock oysters, scallop toast with Kaviari caviar, the brilliant green essence of spring evident in a tiny pea tart, Jake’s Peking duck wontons in a deeply smoky and yet vibrant duck broth and a simply beautiful piece of Mayura Station 9+ wagyu cooked over coals and served with a classic witlof and radicchio salad. Treat yourself to exceptional wines and terrific service from the team all housed in a gorgeous inner-east heritage-listed sandstone building. arkhe.com.au
Courtyard Cuisine
Taking a pal who will share is key at this casual and inner-city spot on Halifax St, which is filled with natural light against blonde timber and dominated by a glorious tree in the internal courtyard. The natural tones of Herringbone provide a fitting backdrop for the bursts of colour on the plates by Quentin Whittle, from roasted candy-striped beetroots on toast with Persian feta and vibrant green harissa or Shark Bay scallops baked on the shell with the rich orange-reds of ’nduja and paprika shouting out atop a soubise sauce and nori butter. Try delicate plates of yellowfin tuna sashimi on crème fraîche with horseradish and pink peppercorn hidden by a veil of fresh cucumber, or the ever-popular lamb shoulder, slow roasted and married to the Middle East via hummus, broken falafel, harissa and ras el hanout. Whatever you choose, do not neglect the house-baked focaccia with chilli oil and reggiano because when it is gone, it’s gone. Herringbone is à la carte pumped out by a super-smart team as the tables turn and the conversation returns again and again to the really good food. herringbonerestaurant.com.au
Nostalgic Cool
Ross Maxwell and the Fugazzi team are nailing the Italian-NY-Aussie vibe and their Fugazzi snack game is high! Who knew a teeny-tiny mortadella sando could be so good? The secret, says Ross, is in the razor-thin crispy salami and the pickled shallot. Picture miniature king prawn cocktails, ‘Roman Vegemite’ toasts with anchovies, or grilled beef-tongue skewers with green goddess sauce and mustard. Try the gnocco fritto with a seriously good whipped ricotta and honey, and the blue swimmer crab taglierini popping with salmon caviar or the superb tiramisu served table side. A little bit glam, a little bit nostalgic and a whole lotta fun smack bang in the centre of the city – the cocktail action alone is worth your attention. fugazzi.com.au
Nature’s Plate
Jamie Musgrave and the team at Restaurant Botanic deliver a serious celebration of place and time within the magical setting of the Adelaide Botanic Gardens. A Gourmet Traveller Top 10 and an Aus Good Food 3-hatter, if there is a place to treat yourself to in Adelaide, this is it. Jamie weaves his magic across 21 bite-sized courses using a list of awe-inspiring ingredients that showcase the diversely unique flavours of Australia including, electric blue caviar, Manjimup truffle, marron, native yams, smoked eel, croc tongue, emu liver and egg, tree ants, quandong, warrigal leaf, Murray cod, paperbark, Geraldton wax and crystal crab. Just wow! Stunning presentation using shells, bones, seedpods, stones, leaves, flowers and feathers left me feeling like I was front row at Australian Fashion Week but allowed to eat the designs. Insanely beautiful alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverage pairings including an intriguing Garden Liquor using ingredients fresh from the surrounding gardens cold-macerated into a tea and using vodka to gently lift and carry the flavours of the season. I wished it would never end. restaurantbotanic.com.au
Luxury Inspired By Local Heritage
Yes, I know, I was extremely lucky to stay at the gorgeous Adelaide Marriott Hotel where the original and historic Post Office has been cleverly merged with modern design to create a luxurious base just minutes from all of the boxes you might want to tick including Rundle Mall, Adelaide Oval, the Art Gallery of South Australia and lets not forget the iconic Adelaide Central Market with over 70 traders under one roof. Not to mention the hotel having its own outstanding restaurant Penny Blue and Exchange Lane bar. Huge thanks to General Manager Paul Gallop and his tremendous team for creating such a special and comfortable stay. marriott.com
Kelli travelled to Adelaide and the Limestone Coast courtesy of southaustralia.com
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