THE DISH BEING presented to the guest in the room on the night is only the tiniest portion of the endless mahi that goes into running a successful restaurant. There are so many voices in food, but often these are not those of the chefs themselves. This column seeks to give light to the rest of the iceberg, hidden deep below the surface, a chance to speak directly to the chefs and see behind the pass. This issue it is all about the ingredients. We spoke about the importance of produce in their kitchens, the ingredients and suppliers they love.
NICK ILES
@twobearsandwich

Q

What is the importance of suppliers to you and your restaurant?

KELDA HAINS / RITA, WELLINGTON

The quality of produce will come through on the plate irrespective of technique, so it’s imperative to seek out the best we can. Developing relationships with suppliers is a favourite part of my job – I love hearing about their values and how they go about putting them into action. I often feel that I can see that integrity in the quality of the produce that we get. Honouring their work is great inspiration! The bigger picture is that the restaurant needs to support local growers; I want a resilient local food economy that everyone can benefit from. rita.co.nz

SAM GASSON / MOIETY, DUNEDIN

Suppliers are everything to us. At the restaurant we have a great network of great people who all share similar values and mindsets to succeed and want to tell a story through food. It’s a privilege to showcase their products through our dishes and glasses. moiety.restaurant

PLABITA FLORENCE / FOREST, AUCKLAND

Suppliers are one of the key foundations of every restaurant. Finding the balance between great quality, local produce and useful supply systems can be a bit tricky, and the lack of those systems can sometimes inhibit our ability to bring in certain products, but this is something we hope is gradually changing. I like to think of every purchase we make as a vote. If our suppliers are selling more local produce than anything else then they will naturally tend towards that trend. You can’t force everyone to care about why, but your dollar into their business can definitely determine what shape the future takes. forestrestaurant.co.nz

PIERRE-ALAIN FENOUX / JANO BISTRO, WELLINGTON

Our supplier is simply the base of what we do. It’s a question of quality, of course, but relationship, too. We try to be as local as we can, but as I always say, “I can’t work with somebody I don’t believe in.” I’m passionate about what I’m doing and it would be hard for me to work with someone who’s not passionate about what they are doing. So quality and relationship goes hand in hand for us. It’s always quite satisfying to talk to our customer about where our produce comes from, there’s a certain pride. janobistro.co.nz

Q

One producer or supplier who blew you away in 2025.

KELDA

I’ve been enjoying working with Vagabond Vege. The produce, from young growers in the Wairarapa, seems full of life and flavour. Buying what they and other local growers have available creates a structure that the chefs and I can work within to make the best menu we can for the moment. Wellingtonians can access their produce through the produce boxes of We Are Little Farms.

SAM 

White hazelnuts from Roy and Jan Johnstone of Tottie’s Flat in Balclutha. Just amazing hazelnuts, cracked fresh to order every month – they roast up so well and peel easily. They have such a wonderful flavour. I’m always trying to find ways for them to make the menu.

PLABITA 

Kyoho grapes from Budou Senshin in Hawkes Bay. These are large, perfectly round grapes that are thick-skinned with a jelly interior. The skin has an almost funky, musky fragrance, followed by the juicy gush of quintessential table grape flavour. The thing to do is gently warm them until they burst, then turn them into sorbet. The balance of sweet, sour, funk and slight tannic, aniseed bite is wild. Not to mention the bright purple colour. It’s what I wish all grapes would deliver!

PIERRE-ALAIN 

Conscious Valley is my favorite supplier – the lamb is amazing and so is the consistency! It’s a farm that has been held in the same family for six generations, Hamish is always eager to help and problem solve. They focus on high-welfare, ethical and sustainable meats – you can feel the hard work and love they put in everyday.

Q

The ingredient that you have enjoyed using most this year. Why?

KELDA

Fresh cheese is reasonably constant on our menu. I especially love fresh goat cheese and have been enjoying Belle Chèvre’s Creamery products recently. So pure, and matches well with lots of vegetables and fruits!

SAM 

Ocean Speared kingfish. I’m not sure if breaking down whole fish or making bread is my favourite prep task, but when a stunning 10kg kingfish arrives at the restaurant, and you know the fish has been so well cared for, it’s a pleasure to process and tell its story to the customer.

PLABITA 

I got into amaretto in a big way this year. I love how the bitter almond/marzipan nature of it becomes like cherry lollies when you pair it with acidity. Some people hate it, but I love it! I notice that a lot of ingredients I tend towards are nice quality ingredients that I’ve worked out ways to make taste like the junk food of my childhood. Nostalgia is powerful.

PIERRE-ALAIN 

I actually really enjoyed working with wild boar this year, from Premium Game. Very underrated yet delicious if handled properly. It’s super versatile and not something you see on every menu in town. I can’t really say I work with it most of the year as we’re changing our menu regularly, but the dish stayed a fairly long time.

Q

The ingredient you hope never returns.

KELDA

I like to think everything has its place, as I try to be disciplined to eat and cook seasonally. In early November I’m so pleased I don’t need to prep another celeriac, and I’m all about peas and broad beans, but come April I’ll be excited for the first taste of celeriac, buttercup pumpkin or quince.

SAM 

Never come back or go away, would be micro herbs. Could we stop dumping fistfuls on dishes that add nothing and calling it done?

PLABITA 

Sundried tomatoes! I think growing up vegetarian in the 90s might’ve ruined these for me. Too loud I reckon – the juicy, sweet, fleshy aspect of a perfectly ripe tomato is the best thing about a tomato in my opinion, so why then would you suck all of that out and render the whole thing chewy, dry and so out of balance that the taste lingers in a sort of ‘nature didn’t design me this way’ kind of way?

PIERRE-ALAIN 

Meat glue/transglutaminase – the era of sticking things together is hopefully over. That stuff should be banned or burned! If you want to stick things together use your brain, if you can’t make it happen then try harder.

SUPPLIERS
Belle Chèvre Creamery
bellechevrecreamery.co.nz
Boudu Senshin budousenshin.com
Conscious Valley consciousvalley.co.nz
Ocean Speared oceanspeared.co.nz
Premium Game premiumgame.co.nz
Vagabond Vege vagabondvege.nz
We Are Little Farms wearelittlefarms.com