GREENFEAST,
SPRING, SUMMER
NIGEL SLATER, FOURTH ESTATE, H/B,
$49.99

There are some super-popular cook book writers who have stood steadfast through all the fads, quietly producing great recipes that transform good ingredients into food that you really, really want to eat. For me, Nigel Slater is one such. This book, and the next in the series covering autumn and winter, grew from Slater’s realisation that despite being a meat lover, more and more of his daily eating has become plant based. A dish titled ‘Cauliflower, pumpkin seeds, breadcrumbs’ might not sound extra special but it translates into crisp fried cauliflower, a soft, creamy purée and the toothsome crunch of toasted seeds. Slater’s books are not just about recipes – his writing is evocative and sensuous, the words of a man who loves food, how it looks, how it feels, how it smells. The chapter titled ‘In a Bowl’ says, “I have two wooden bowls for porridge, made from ash. They form a gentle start to the day. The quiet, beatific pleasure of the movement of wooden spoon across wooden bowl. I feel like Goldilocks…” Aimed at spring and summer the feeling is light, breezy and laid back – overall the guiding principle remains that dinner must be delicious. TW

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