ADDRESS:   Excelsior Bldg, cnr Galway & Commerce Sts, Auckland CBD
MAINS:   $37 – $39
CONTACT:   09 869 5522
SCORE:   18.5 / 20

Michael Meredith, Mr Morris. That’s four big, dreamy ‘mmmms’ that well suit this celebrated chef’s latest venture. Since closing his eponymous Balmoral spot four years ago, Meredith has developed an easier, more approachable food style at Britomart. Key features remain: the menu is the epitome of Kiwi-born fusion food. Pasifika, French, Italian, Asian, Mexican – it’s all excellent. This is Meredith’s best work, showcasing his ability to combine disparate flavours. With his artist’s eye, he demonstrates superb craftsmanship and uses multiple techniques on a single plate. He’s become more playful with his food too. Mr Morris (named after Meredith’s partner’s late uncle) does not meet expectations – it reinvents them. A top FOH team and extensive wine list (with a great selection by the glass).

IN BRIEF: The best of the best in Britomart