ADDRESS:   9 Princes St, Auckland CBD
MAINS:   $34 – $42
CONTACT:   09 930 9123
SCORE:   17 / 20

The signature is an eclair – a treat as conceived by Josh Emett. But this one’s not sweet; it’s filled with Fiordland crayfish, which sparks an instant smile. That beam spreads ever wider here at the home of Josh and wife Helen Emett. Onslow is the first restaurant he has fully owned and operated outright, which gives the former MasterChef judge and man of many addresses (Rātā, Madam Woo, Ostro) time to fully spread his wings. And see how he flies. There’s something on the menu to suit, whatever your preference. Fried chicken with caviar gets a cameo; playful lamb’s tongue schnitzel weds capers and fennel. In this stunning room, Helen ensures service and attention to detail is equally key to a mightily fine dining occasion while head chef Glen File delivers on that promise. Memories are made of a meal at the Emetts on Princes.

IN BRIEF: A stylish spot with expertly considered dishes