Having so far devoted 25 years (and counting) to hospo in the city, Michael Meredith could be considered an elder statesman of the Auckland food scene. At his latest venture, SkyCity’s Metita, the menu is a culmination of everything he’s learnt in professional New Zealand kitchens applied to the ingredients and dishes he grew up with in Samoa, where his mother owned her own food businesses.

Growing up in the islands meant that Michael was surrounded by fresh ingredients and the ocean. Core dishes such as raw fish, roast pork every Sunday and steamed pudding cooked in corned beef cans were meals that shaped his childhood. Deeply aware of and inspired by his heritage, Michael sees his work as a celebration of Samoa, weaving childhood memories and Pacific culture into his creative vision. Sitting down to speak with Michael, passion and pride for this work are written all over his face. “I have a passion about creating, it inspires me to dream,” he says.

This culinary creativity has certainly paid off, with Metita winning the award for Hotel Restaurant of the Year at this year’s Cuisine Good Food Awards. Such an award is, of course, a testament to Michael and is also recognition of the team effort behind it all. But such an accolade doesn’t mean it’s time to relax; it simply sets the expectations higher. For Michael, it means that moving forwards he can invest more in staff and training to keep those standards high.

While the future of the hospitality industry is changing, Michael hopes there are young people who have the same drive and passion that his mentors once saw in him when he was starting out. “Take your time,” he says. “Work for the right people. Get your basics.”

As the year approaches its end and we think about putting up the Christmas tree, Michael reflects on how the festive season is a time of family, celebration, community and, of course, fantastic food. “As you grow and change, you remember childhood. Food is a taste and a happy memory.”

Bringing Pacific flavours into your home kitchen is far less daunting than it might seem and endlessly rewarding. Michael’s advice for anyone wanting to explore Pacific cuisine is simple: do your research and be curious. You can visit local markets, ask questions and pick up tips, tricks and techniques along the way. It’s important to get to know the ingredients and traditional methods, even if some, such as cooking in taro leaves or stone ovens, aren’t accessible in a home kitchen. For many, Pacific foods such as taro introduce not just a new flavour but an entirely new texture and experience.

You may have a grandparent’s infamous (and overly boozy) trifle or your parents’ perfectly cooked glazed ham on the table this time of year. However, for Michael, there is one stand-out celebration dish that brings a smile to his face: his mum’s pineapple pie, a dish he grew up with and was always excited to see on the table. Like us, Michael is a firm believer that, no matter how full you may be after any meal, you always have a little extra room for dessert.

Throughout his illustrious career, Michael has carried a creative and successful vision that remains profoundly influenced by his roots. He believes he stepped into the industry at a moment when New Zealand was truly embracing Pasifika cuisine. While Michael has plenty on his plate, he embraces growth and constantly welcomes any new opportunities that come his way. MIA BENNETT