Paul Schrader works the floor, smiling, pouring, delivering plates to diners, while Kelda Haines cooks the sort of food that satisfies profoundly. It’s the perfect partnership and one that has lasted nearly 20 years. Few things offer more comfort than a simple bowl of cooked rice, especially when it’s been enriched with generous amounts of butter and cream. On the menu since the beginning, Nikau’s kedgeree is an unpretentious dish that has become the benchmark against which all other kedgerees are measured. The secret is in the intriguing mix of spices that Kelda uses, an intuitive balance of vibrant flavours.