Ingredients

6 tablespoons (85g) unsalted European butter, diced
½ teaspoon fine sea salt
1 cup (140g) all-purpose flour
4 large eggs, at room temperature
10 anchovy fillets, finely chopped
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to finish
flaky sea salt

I first learned to make pâte à choux in pastry school in my early twenties, piping the thick, sticky dough into éclairs and profiteroles. Then, when I moved from New York to Paris, it was savoury pâte à choux over and over by way of shiny, stretchy dough run through with a gratable cheese to make gougères. But it wasn’t until I started spending time in Provence that I came to know anchovy choux. Quite the same versatile butter-flour-egg-water, but now laced with bits of salty, briny anchovies.

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Instructions

1.Line two large baking sheets with parchment paper.
2.In a medium saucepan over medium-high heat, combine 240ml of water, the butter and fine sea salt.
3.Heat until the butter is melted and the mixture is hot but not boiling.
4.Add the flour all at once, lower the heat to medium, and use a wooden spoon to stir constantly until the dough pulls away from the sides of the pan, a smooth ball forms, and the mixture starts to leave a film on the pan, 3 to 4 minutes.
5.Transfer the dough to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment.
6.Mix on medium-low speed until the bowl no longer feels hot to the touch, then add the eggs, one at a time, making sure each is mixed in before adding the next.
7.Once all the eggs are added, increase the speed to medium-high and beat for 15 minutes.
8.Add the anchovies and pepper and mix just to combine.
9.Preheat the oven to 200°C.
10.Scoop heaped tablespoons of the dough onto the prepared baking sheets, spacing each spoonful about 4cm apart.
11.Sprinkle with flaky sea salt and pepper.
12.Place in the oven, immediately lower the temperature to 190°C, and bake until puffed and deeply golden brown, 20 to 25 minutes, rotating the pans halfway through.
13.Serve warm or at room temperature.

Excerpted from Le
Sud: Recipes from
Provence-Alpes-Côte
d’Azur by Rebekah
Peppler © 2024.
Published by Chronicle
Books. Photographs
© Joann Pai.