Ingredients

CRUMPET BATTER
8g dry yeast
300g bread flour
10g salt
20g sugar
5g baking soda (bicarbonate of soda)
canola oil, to heat and grease the crumpet rings
TARAMASALATA
300g cold-pressed rapeseed oil
150g smoked fish roe (available from most fishmongers or Asian markets)
50g potato, boiled until tender, completely cold
1 teaspoon Dijon or English mustard
2 teaspoons smoked paprika
zest and juice of 2 lemons
1 teaspoon sea salt
red Tabasco (optional, if you like a little kick)
TO SERVE
fresh chives
a little caviar (if feeling indulgent; we used whitebait caviar)
freshly cracked black pepper
a drizzle of good olive oil

English crumpets fresh off the pan, golden and spongy, ready to soak up a generous dollop of silky, smoky and rich taramasalata. They are simple, a little indulgent and very hard to stop eating.

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Instructions

1.Combine the yeast with 300ml tepid water.
2.Allow to sit until frothy, about 5 minutes – this tells you the yeast is active and ready.
3.In a large bowl, combine the bread flour, salt and sugar.
4.Add the activated yeast mixture and mix with a stiff spatula until fully incorporated.
5.Cover and leave to prove in a warm place until doubled in size, about 30-45 minutes.
6.Dissolve the baking soda in 80ml tepid water.
7.Once the dough has doubled, pour in the soda solution and mix vigorously until smooth and fully combined.
8.Cover again and allow to prove a second time until tripled in size, about 30-45 minutes.
9.The batter should now look airy, elastic, and full of life.
10.While the batter completes its second prove, prepare the crumpet rings (or use metal cookie cutters).
11.Warm a small saucepan of canola oil to approximately 120°C.
12.Lower the heat to maintain this temperature.
13.Put the crumpet rings into the oil to heat.
14.Heat a non-stick frying pan over low-medium heat.
15.Place a heated, lightly oiled ring into the dry pan.
16.Do one small practice crumpet first to dial in your pan temperature.
17.Spoon in enough batter to just cover the base of the ring.
18.Now watch carefully – if the temperature is correct the crumpet will slowly rise, the surface will begin to look slightly dry and small holes or dimples will form; if it is too hot you’ll get a burnt base and a raw centre; too cool and you’ll have a dense, pale crumpet.
19.This process cooks the crumpet almost entirely on one side, which is key.
20.Once the top looks set and dimpled, remove the ring and flip briefly to colour the top side.
21.Cook just long enough to achieve light golden colour, about 2-3 minutes depending on the size.
22.Remove and cool on a rack.
23.Repeat until all the batter is used.
24.TARAMASALATA
25.Put the rapeseed oil in the freezer until extremely cold but not frozen solid – the colder the oil, the more stable and silky your taramasalata will be.
26.Combine the remaining ingredients in a food processor with 50ml cold water and blend until completely smooth.
27.With the blender running, gradually and steadily drizzle in the very cold oil, just as if you were making mayonnaise.
28.The mixture will thicken as the oil is incorporated and the emulsion forms.
29.Continue until all the oil is absorbed, or the emulsion reaches your desired thickness – it should be smooth, spoonable and luxurious.
30.TO SERVE
31.Spoon the taramasalata onto a plate and flatten gently with the back of a spoon, or form into a ring.
32.Sprinkle over some chives and black pepper, drizzle with good olive oil and top with a little caviar (if using).
33.Serve with toasted crumpets.

Recipes & food styling Josh Phillips
Photography Sam Stewart