Summer is the time for new potatoes to shine, when they are small and waxy, and lovely buttered and in salads, but as we come into the cooler months the more floury styles claim back their throne. Best for baking, roasting, mashing and chips, they are the ultimate comfort food. Waxy varieties, with their ability to hold shape, find their way into soups, stews or a controversial gratin – people are split between what makes a better one: waxy potatoes giving clean individual slices  or floury ones that meld together in a more cohesive pie. It’s their firmness that makes waxy potatoes a good choice for my ’nduja hash brown, a simple quick- cooked version that is crispier using waxy potatoes. But everywhere else, the fluffy qualities of floury are what you are after.