A moules marinières makeover, clever ways with feijoas and cream cheese and make-your-own mustard ideas from David Neville.

THERE’S LOTS OF . . . FEIJOAS

Personal disclosure here: I am very biased towards feijoas. They are one of my favourite fruits because they display a number of contrasts. Despite being the size of an egg, you can find sweetness, tart and floral notes, flavours of apple, pineapple, mint and lime. They’re both juicy and granular at the same time. The only drawback is their season is too short.

GIVE THESE A GO…

Baked caramelised feijoas
Heat the oven to 160°C. Halve 8 ripe feijoas and arrange in a baking dish. Mix ½ cup brown sugar, 2 tablespoons melted unsalted butter, 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon, ½ teaspoon ground ginger, ¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg and a pinch of salt. Spoon the mixture over the feijoas, making sure they are evenly coated. Bake for 25-30 minutes, or until the feijoas are soft and caramelised. Serve warm as a dessert with cream or ice cream.

Feijoa & rosemary curd
Scoop the flesh of 8 ripe feijoas into a food processor. Add the leaves from 3 sprigs fresh rosemary and blend until smooth. Whisk 3 large eggs with ½ cup sugar until pale and creamy. Pour the feijoa and rosemary purée into a saucepan and heat over medium-low heat, stirring constantly. Once the mixture begins to steam, slowly pour in the egg and sugar mixture, whisking continuously to combine. Add ½ cup unsalted butter, cut into small cubes, and stir until melted and well combined. Continue cooking the mixture, stirring constantly, for 5-7 minutes, or until it thickens and coats the back of a spoon. Remove from heat and let it cool slightly before pouring into sterilised jars.

Feijoa & autumn fruit chutney
Peel and chop 500g feijoas, 250g apples and 250g pears. In a large saucepan, combine the chopped fruit with ½ cup raisins, ½ cup brown sugar, ¼ cup apple cider vinegar, ¼ cup water, 1 teaspoon ground ginger, ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon and a pinch of salt. Stir well to combine then bring the mixture to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, stirring occasionally, for about 30-40 minutes, or until the fruit has softened and the mixture has thickened. Remove from heat and let it cool to room temperature before transferring to sterilised jars.

Feijoa-skin jelly Place equal amounts of feijoa skins and water into a large saucepan and bring to a boil over a high heat. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, covered, for 30 minutes, or until the liquid has turned pink and the skins are tender. Strain through a fine-meshed sieve or cheesecloth, discarding the skins. Measure the liquid and return it to the saucepan. For every cup of liquid add 1 cup sugar and the juice of 1 lemon. Heat the mixture over a medium heat, stirring constantly, until the sugar has dissolved. Increase the heat to high and boil the mixture, without stirring, for about 10 minutes or until the jelly reaches the desired thickness. To test the jelly, spoon a small amount onto a chilled plate and let it cool for a few seconds. If it sets and wrinkles when pushed with a finger, it’s ready. Remove from heat and pour into sterilised jars. Great on brioche or Vogel’s bread.

MAKE IT YOURSELF / MUSTARD

The strength of mustard is also its downfall. It is one of the earliest cultivated spices, though this long history has given us familiarity and, therefore, some contempt. I am as guilty of this as anyone. What would our mayonnaises, hotdogs and curries be without it? Making homemade mustard has reminded me my life would be less if it were lacking.

GIVE THESE A GO…

Traditional white wine mustard
Combine ½ cup yellow mustard seeds and ½ cup white wine in a medium-sized bowl. Cover and let the mixture sit in the fridge for at least 8 hours or overnight. Once soaked, transfer to a food processor or blender. Add ¼ cup white wine vinegar, ½ teaspoon salt and 1¼ teaspoons ground turmeric. Blend until the mixture is smooth and press through a sieve. Ideal with sandwiches, charcuterie boards or fatty meats.

Tequila & lime mustard
Combine ½ cup yellow mustard seeds, ¼ cup tequila and ¼ cup lime juice in a medium-sized bowl. Cover and let the mixture sit in the fridge for at least 8 hours or overnight to allow the mustard seeds to soak up the flavours. Once soaked, transfer the mixture to a food processor. Add ¼ cup white wine vinegar, 1 tablespoon honey and ½ teaspoon each salt and ground turmeric. Blend the ingredients until the mixture is almost smooth, then press through a sieve. Ideal with salted foods such as pretzels and cured ham.

Wholegrain honey mustard
Combine ⅔ cup yellow mustard seeds, ⅓ cup black mustard seeds and 1 cup apple cider vinegar and allow to soak overnight in the fridge. The following day, blend seeds with 2 generous tablespoons honey and a teaspoon salt until smooth. Blend for approximately 3 minutes until the mustard is pale yellow but the crushed mustard seeds are still visible. Ideal for use in dressings, mayonnaise and curries.

Fermented turmeric mustard
Combine 150g mustard seeds with 75ml each apple cider vinegar and water. Leave to soak overnight at room temperature. Blend seeds with 1 tablespoon white sugar and 1 teaspoon ground turmeric until nearly smooth. Weigh the blended mix and mix in 2% of that weight of natural non-iodised flaky sea salt. Transfer to a clean jar, cover with a clean cloth and allow to ferment in a dark place for 5 days. When the mustard develops small air bubbles, seal the jar and store it in the fridge to stop fermentation. Ideal for use in chutneys or with artisan sausages.

Chipotle mustard (not pictured)
Combine ¼ cup yellow mustard seeds, ¼ cup apple cider vinegar, 2 dried chipotle chillies (I used Tio Pablo brand) and ¼ cup water in a medium bowl. Cover the bowl and let it sit in the fridge for at least 8 hours or overnight, so the mustard seeds absorb the liquid. Once soaked, transfer the mixture to a food processor or blender. Add 2 tablespoons brown sugar and ½ teaspoon each salt and ground turmeric. Blend the ingredients until the mixture is nearly smooth, then sieve. Ideal in place of any mustard when you prefer a spicy edge to the flavour.

REINVENTING THE MEAL / MOULES MARINIÈRES

Moules marinières is a lesson in the power of good naming: complicated enough to sound debonair and with some catchy alliteration. The reality is that it is a simple dish of mussels steamed in white wine and shallots. That gives us room to tinker with the classic and reinvent it into something more modern.

GIVE THESE A GO…

Mussels with tomato & basil
Clean and debeard 1kg fresh mussels. Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large pot over a medium heat and sauté 1 diced onion and 3 minced garlic cloves until they are fragrant and soft. Add 1 cup canned diced tomatoes, ½ cup white wine, 10 basil leaves and a pinch of salt and pepper to the pot. Stir the ingredients together and let the sauce simmer for 10 minutes. Add the mussels to the pot and stir them gently to coat them in the sauce. Cover the pot with a tight-fitting lid and let the mussels cook for 5-7 minutes or until they have opened up.

Creamy white wine mussels
Clean and debeard 1kg fresh mussels. Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a large pot over a medium heat and sauté 1 diced onion and 3 minced garlic cloves until soft. Add ½ cup white wine to the pot and let it simmer for a few minutes to reduce. Add the mussels and stir. Cover the pot with a tight-fitting lid and let the mussels steam for 5-7 minutes. Once the mussels have opened, remove them from the pot with a slotted spoon and set them aside. Add 1 cup cream to the remaining sauce and bring it to a simmer. Let the sauce cook for a few minutes until it has thickened slightly, then stir the mussels through. Serve with french bread.

Moules poulette
Clean and debeard 1kg fresh mussels. Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a large pot over a medium heat and sauté 1 diced shallot, 2 minced garlic cloves and 1 cup sliced white button mushrooms until fragrant and soft. Add ½ cup white wine and let it simmer for a few minutes to reduce. Add the mussels and stir. Cover the pot and let the mussels cook for 5-7 minutes. Remove mussels from the pot with a slotted spoon. Add 2 tablespoons butter to the pot and whisk in 2 tablespoons flour to create a roux. Gradually pour in 1 cup chicken stock and ½ cup cream, whisking to prevent lumps. Add 1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley and a pinch of salt and pepper to the sauce. Serve mussels in the shell and pour over the hot sauce.

Spicy fragrant mussels
Clean and debeard 1kg fresh mussels. Heat 2 tablespoons vegetable oil in a large pot over a medium heat and sauté 2 minced garlic cloves and 1 tablespoon grated ginger until they are fragrant. Add 1 tablespoon red curry paste and stir to combine. Add 400ml coconut milk, 1 teaspoon fish sauce and 1 tablespoon brown sugar to the pot and stir to combine. Bring the sauce to a simmer and cook for a few minutes. Add the mussels and stir them gently to coat them in the sauce. Cover the pot with a tight-fitting lid and let the mussels cook for 5-7 minutes until they have opened up. Serve in the shells garnished with fresh lime and coriander.

Bayou mussels
Clean and debeard 1kg fresh mussels. Heat 2 tablespoons vegetable oil in a large pot over a medium heat and sauté 1 diced onion and 1 diced capsicum until they are soft. Add 2 minced garlic cloves and 1 finely sliced chorizo sausage to the pot, stirring to combine. Add 400g diced tomatoes and ½ cup chicken stock to the pot and stir to combine. Bring the sauce to a simmer and let it cook for a few minutes, then add the mussels to the pot and stir them gently to coat them in the sauce. Cover the pot with a tight-fitting lid and let the mussels cook for 5-7 minutes or until they have opened.

CELEBRATING THE STAPLES / CREAM CHEESE

Cream cheese would make a good MI5 operative – effective and inconspicuous. The real challenge is assigning it missions beyond bagels and cheesecake. Most people will never consider cream cheese the James Bond of the cheese world, but it can still be used to enhance international dishes of mystery and intrigue.

GIVE THESE A GO…

Cream cheese-stuffed french toast
For each serving, sandwich 1 tablespoon cream cheese between two slices of bread. In a bowl, whisk together 2 eggs, ¼ cup milk, ¼ teaspoon vanilla extract and ¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon. Dip each sandwich into the egg mixture, coating both sides well. Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a frying pan over medium heat, add the sandwiches and cook for 2-3 minutes on each side until they are golden brown and the cream cheese is slightly melted. Serve immediately, plain or with your favourite toppings such as maple syrup, fruit or icing sugar.

Cream cheese alfredo sauce
Melt ½ cup unsalted butter in a saucepan over a medium heat, add ½ cup softened cream cheese and stir until the cream cheese has melted and the mixture is smooth. Add ¼ cup grated parmesan cheese and stir until the cheese has melted and the sauce is smooth and creamy. If the sauce is too thick, thin it out with some pasta-cooking water until you reach the desired consistency. Once the sauce is ready, toss it with cooked pasta, coating the pasta evenly with sauce. Add toppings such as grilled chicken, steamed vegetables or fresh herbs.

Passionfruit pashka
Mix 4 cups cream cheese and 1 cup softened unsalted butter in a large mixing bowl until they are well combined. Add 1 cup icing sugar, 4 egg yolks and 1 teaspoon vanilla extract and mix everything until smooth and creamy. Once the mixture is smooth, fold in 1 cup fresh passionfruit pulp, mixing until well incorporated. Transfer the mixture to a cheesecloth-lined mould, such as a small colander, and press it down gently to remove any air pockets. Cover the mould with a plate and place a weight on top to help compress the mixture. Refrigerate the pashka for at least 24 hours, or until it’s firm and set. Once the pashka is ready, remove it from the mould and garnish it with additional passionfruit pulp, mint leaves or some whipped cream.

Date & cream cheese devils on horseback
Take 120g cream cheese from the fridge and let it soften at room temperature for a few minutes. Remove the pits from 10 large dates. Once the cheese has softened, mix in 1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley and 1 tablespoon honey, mixing until well combined. Stuff each date with approximately 1 teaspoon of the cream cheese mixture then wrap with a slice of bacon, securing it with a toothpick. Arrange the bacon-wrapped dates on a baking sheet lined with baking paper, leaving some space between each one. Bake for 15-20 minutes until the bacon is crispy and the cream cheese is bubbly.