The invitation for Cuisine to take a whirlwind trip to Italy to celebrate The World’s 50 Best Restaurant Awards filled my heart with a mix of excitement and dread. With the awards events taking priority across the week and only one day to myself to explore the beautiful city of Turin, I would need to make every meal count.

SPUNTINI
A WELCOME SNACK

I arrived at the Hotel Victoria, smack bang in the centre of Turin, far too late to join a planned afternoon and early evening group excursion. Forced to take a walk and find a restaurant without prior research – something I never do – in a city that boasts over 2000 restaurants including trattorias, pizzerias, fine-dining establishments and cafés, I should have been feeling severe FOMO. However, armed with the knowledge that I had locked in some of the city’s best dining experiences for the next day, a little stroll around the corner landed me in the Piazza Carlina where a multitude of restaurants spilled out onto the square. The buzziest and busiest by far was a tiny wine bar with a huge outdoor seating area filled with Italians of all ages enjoying what looked like slices of pizza served in a cone. It turned out that Trapizzino – ironically a franchise that is inspired by Roman cuisine – serves the most delicious snacks that combine the crispiness of pizza with super-flavourful stews such as chicken cacciatore, eggplant parmesan, ossobuco, meatballs or tongue. It also serves a famous Roman street food called suppli – a snack of fried rice balls with delicious risotto fillings including the current crowd pleaser, cacio e pepe – at just €2 each. It’s casual, it can be as fast or as slow as you like, and with a Negroni Spritz to start and a wine list with more than 120 labels to peruse I was totally happy to sit, sip, snack and check out the handbag action as I watched the locals stroll by in their beautiful Italian shoes. trapizzino.it

COLAZIONE
FOR BREAKFAST

Caffè Platti on Corso Vittorio Emanuele II has been a cherished breakfast ritual among Torinesi since 1875, and rightly so. I’m reliably informed it was the place to be for statesmen, writers and intellectuals, all of whom seemed to flourish beneath its glittering crystal chandeliers and gilded stucco ceilings. One can only imagine the espresso- fuelled debates and pastry-assisted revelations that took place within its lavishly mirrored walls. Today you can choose to sit at the marble-topped tables in the salon or at the counter and either way you are in for a treat with more than 20 varieties of fresh, artisan croissants and pastries, all made in-house under the watchful eye of Luciano Stillitano who is considered a master in crafting pasticceria mignon – tiny cakes and pastries. The flaky cornetti are especially cherished across the city and you might pair these with a classic bicerin, Turin’s famed blend of espresso and chocolate, or a cappuccino served with a dainty teaspoon of cream on the side. The cream is, of course, an optional but unforgettable gesture. Time seems to slow down in this special place. Beyond the breakfast pastries, the menu shines at all hours and celebrates its signature creations along with Piedmontese classics. Drop in for afternoon tea of petit fours and savoury tramezzini – its famous triangular sandwiches served on antique silver trays – or stop by for a sophisticated aperitif. platti1875.com

PRANZO
FOR LUNCH

Tucked away in the San Salvario district, Scannabue Caffè Restaurant is everything I’ve dreamed of in a classic Italian osteria. With its warm, vintage-inspired interiors, cool crowd, and a menu that speaks fluent Piemonte, this is the restaurant that deserves to be your first true taste of Turin. The wine list overflows with carefully curated labels and while the kitchen celebrates the rich heritage of the region, things are not always as Nonna might expect. ‘Vitello Tonnato our way’ delivers superbly sliced roast beef and a generous dollop of spectacular traditional tuna sauce, and it is pure heaven. Squid ink pasta, baby calamari, capers, confit tomatoes and olives – OOF! – and the creamy tzatziki and oily-delicious green beans are now my new favourite partners for a piece of perfectly cooked fish. Scannabue seems to give a nod to tradition while still feeling vibrant, edgy and peppered with clever technique and the team driven by chef and owner Paolo Fantini and executive chef Roberto Solina clearly love what they do. It’s a Bib Gourmande in the 2025 Michelin Guide and with such good quality and great value (the ‘Traditional Menu’ starts at €37.50 per person) Scannabue is one to watch. scannabue.it

CENA
FOR DINNER

Satisfied that I had found what I consider a fantastic example of a modern Torino eatery, I snuck away from the 50 Best crowd, who were eagerly searching for their next new taste sensation, to immerse myself in the offering of one of the oldest restaurants in the world.

Del Cambio opened in 1757 and although it has seen its fair share of influencers throughout the years – including Mozart, Nietzsche, Maria Callas and Audrey Hepburn – what has impressed me the most is its quiet dedication to providing a space for serious young professionals to develop their skills within this historic Michelin- starred venue. I booked The Chef’s Table and I’m so glad that I did. There was a special moment as maitre d’ Fabio Furci opened the door to the private room and paused (just for himself) to look through into the kitchen with immense pride. As I sat in the only seat at this intimate table, looking straight into the bowels of the kitchen, I watched the intricately choreographed rhythms unfold that lead to the execution of each beautiful dish. I felt the passion of these clever young chefs under the expert guidance of executive chef Diego Giglio and received an intense taste of the history of true Piedmontese flavour, while thoughtful wine matches from an extraordinary wine list transported each dish to yet another level. Highlights were a spectacular quenelle of caviar on a tonic-water granita sprinkled with lime zest; ever-so-slightly steamed mussels stuffed with roe and raw sausage and served on a stunning block of ice and herbs; tiny pasta buttons stuffed with salted cod, served with a Mediterranean sauce and crispy black olives; shavings of pink veal served in a delicate gel made from the veal fat and a vibrant parsley anchovy oil. The food at Del Cambio is refined, inventive and yet deeply rooted in Piedmontese tradition. As expected, there is an abundance of sparkling chandeliers, stucco ceilings and velvet-draped elegance, but unexpected was the second dining room panelled in mirrored surfaces cleverly created by Italian painter Michelangelo Pistoletto where the diner and the changing surroundings become an element of the artwork. This isn’t just one of Italy’s most iconic restaurants, it’s a pilgrimage for lovers of history, fine food and art, and I feel humbled to have taken a seat at this very special table. delcambio.it

LA DORMITA
TO SLEEP

Tucked away on a quiet street just steps from Turin’s grand boulevards and piazzas, Hotel Victoria is a gem. More private townhouse than hotel, this boutique hideaway offers a refined escape flavoured with grace, calm and character. Once inside, you’re transported to a world of curated beauty, where each guestroom is uniquely styled, whispering stories of bygone elegance with embroidered linens and curated artwork. Rich tapestries, antique furnishings and genteel sitting rooms provide cosy areas to relax, while the hotel’s Iside Spa is a destination in itself – an Egyptian-inspired sanctuary with a subterranean pool, Turkish bath and an atmosphere of quiet indulgence. Mornings begin with a lavish breakfast served in the conservatory that spills out into the flower-filled, sun-dappled courtyard, providing a tranquil oasis for your perfectly poured espresso. It’s more than a place to stay, it’s a place to savour – discreet and oozing timeless Italian hospitality. hotelvictoria-torino.com

IF YOU HAVE TIME TO WANDER…

EATALY TORINO

The original flagship opened here in 2007, born of Turin pride and the Slow Food ethos – ‘good, clean, fair’ – with Turin’s vermouth legacy sneaking into every corner. eataly.net Via Ermanno Fenoglietti 14, 10126 Turin (Lingotto District)

FARMACIA DEL CAMBIO

This historic pharmacy turned gourmet pastry temple is perfect for a cubo (a custard croissant), a quick lunch or a suggestive aperitif in one of the most enchanting squares of Turin. farmaciadelcambio.it Piazza Carignano 2, 10123 Turin

LA LIMONAIA

Chef Cesare Grandi offers more than a meal – it’s a sensory waltz through a lemon-scented veranda filled with quirky curated décor and contemporary surprises on every plate. Well worth a cab ride. lalimonaia.org Via Mario Ponzio 10/B, 10141 Turin

FLOR PERFUMERIA & CAFÉ

It’s where fragrance flirts with espresso. Sip a silky cappuccino while testing exquisite, niche perfumes. So chic! Via Accademia delle Scienze 4, 10123 Turin

MUSEO EGIZIO (THE EGYPTIAN MUSEUM)

Home to one of the world’s finest collections of Egyptian antiquities outside Egypt, no less. Mummies, hieroglyphs and ancient bling await. museoegizio.it Via Accademia delle Scienze, 6, 10123 Turin

THE BOUTIQUES OF VIA ROMA

Turin’s answer to the Champs-Élysées. A catwalk of high fashion, curated design and dangerously tempting windows. Credit cards beware. Via Roma, 10121 Turin

RISTORANTE SCATTO AT THE GALLERIA D’ITALIA

For its signature must-try, Condensed Rice Risotto. Presented in an Andy Warhol-inspired tin can, this playful dish encapsulates Scatto’s ethos – bold, beautiful and deliciously unexpected. costardibros.it/ristorante-scatto-torino Piazza San Carlo 156, 10123 Turin

Thanks to Carlotta Prandi for her thoughtful insights and expert recommendations on the sights and sounds of Turin. For those seeking a knowledgeable local guide, she comes most highly recommended. ■

Kelli travelled to Turin courtesy of visitpiemonte.com