Wellington’s premiere seafood restaurant offers the full fine- dining experience in a newly renovated interior filled with subtle coastal references. Giant picture windows overlook the marina, from which you can watch the sun set over the Tinakori Hills. It has all the fine-dining touches you hope for such as an amuse bouche, freshly baked sourdough and house churned seaweed butter and attentive wait staff with intimate knowledge of the menu and wine list, able to presented careful suggestions of how to marry the two. With a small menu, the chef has to ensure that everything earns its place. Dishes such as tiny goujons of raw kahawai, oily and rich but unexpectedly delicious, wrapped in thinly sliced, cured fat of pork jowl all bundled with chopped cooked leek and preserved lemon peel, suggest that chef James Pask has it all under control.

IN BRIEF Kaimoana at its best, served waterside