The pared-back black-and-white restaurant exterior doesn’t begin to hint at the warmth of the welcome inside this well-respected fine-dining restaurant. Co-owner Jenni May is the perfect hostess surrounding guests in a warm bubble of wellbeing. Husband Andrew keeps the quality approach in the kitchen, with meat dishes in the starring roles, such as a peppered venison tenderloin with smoked mussel and hazelnut slaw, or sous vide lamb with lentil dahl. Creative flashes such as savoury beignets and pumpkin, feta and coriander dumplings with celeriac noodles are also a welcome feature. The dining room is contemporary yet comfortable: a European-style dark-panelled bar running along the length of one wall with muted tones and polished concrete sets the tone for an elegant meal.

IN BRIEF City style in a smart regional setting