ADDRESS:   99 Boulcott St, Wellington
MAINS:   $39 – $42
CONTACT:   04 499 4199
SCORE:   16 / 20

Thirty years and climbing, Boulcott St Bistro has a reputation that still stands tall. If you blinked, you’d miss it, tucked as it is among the brutalist concrete architecture that is so much of central Wellington. But this oasis of European style continues to deliver the goods. The classics are there, but each is given a touch of terroir that stamps it as uniquely modern and Kiwi/South Pacific. The crayfish tortellini with crayfish bisque is exceptional: gorgeously plump with ocean-fresh terrific-ness, it has all of the flavour but none of the fuss. Clearly, there are some skilled hands at work in the kitchen here. The wine list is difficult to fault and the cocktails are first-class. BSB has been deservedly popular over the decades and continues to perform.

IN BRIEF Classic bistro style with a uniquely Kiwi twist