With four- eight- or twelve-course degustation to choose from, there’s an array of clever concepts here and flavours such as a fillet of monkfish in a ginger and nettle citrus broth, a goat’s curd apple and thyme ravioli with carrot cream, and venison with smoked lentils and an elderberry and hawthorne gel. In a nice touch, a gorgeous chocolate cremeux uses chocolate made just a few streets away from the classic old Dunedin villa in which Bracken is housed. The food is complemented by an excellent and well-priced wine list with a great emphasis on Waitaki, Central Otago and Canterbury regions. There is also an interesting wine library list for those who really want to extend their choice, all delivered by smart staff who are knowledgeable and passionate about New Zealand wine.

IN BRIEF Clever degustation dining with interesting wine