By Cuisine1 Minutes
February 8, 2022By Cuisine

ADDRESS:   Level 1, 12 Wyndham St, Auckland CBD
TROLLEY SERVICE:   $55 or $99
CONTACT:   09 377 5992
SCORE:   16.5 / 20

This grungy, cool space up the stairs off Wyndham St is the domain of cutting-edge chef Kyle Street, whose original trolley service-style of dining was ground-breaking. Today that contemporary yum-cha approach feels more lived- in and certainly means the kitchen can excel across a smaller selection than a traditional à la carte situation. The kitchen is heads-down and machine-like in its focus: they know what they’re doing, and the confidence shines on the plate, as do the well-chosen ingredients in clever but not-too-confronting flavour combinations. If Culprit is guilty of anything, it might be in having almost too many wait staff. There’s always someone there when you have a question or when your glass of water is getting below two-thirds full – hardly a punishable crime.

IN BRIEF: An inner-city gourmet hideout