Hayes Common displays all the best attributes of an owner-operated restaurant, with superb attention to detail and staff that are on song throughout. Owners Lisa and Brent Quarrie pitch this as a neighbourhood eatery – on which it delivers in spades, yet steps things up several notches. The food is on trend, freshly prepared with quality ingredients and flavours that nod east and west. Vegans have a dedicated menu and there are copious vegetarian options on the main menus. A black bean tostada, with roast butternut, avocado, chilli and lime is a masterclass in how to get crunch, heat, sweetness and acid working in concert. Harissa lamb rump and slow-cooked lamb belly on labneh with charred carrot, crispy chickpeas and dukkah show deft cooking and flavour matching.

IN BRIEF Lots to like for all tastes