We’d like to think we’re purists with the Mediterranean classics, having spent a bit of time getting to know them, but in fact we’re far from it. We’ve made dumplings with tenerumi (Sicilian squash leaves) while staying in the heart of Palermo, burgers smothered with ‘nduja in Calabria, Chinese spring onion pancakes to mop up garlicky Catanian mussels and once, after a few negronis, we ‘accidentally’ ordered a pizza with french fries on it. No, we’re not particularly proud of the pizza con patatine fritte incident, but we’re very much in favour of following what the heart and stomach desires and giving an occasional twist to some of the much-loved classics. There’s definitely a time and place for celebrating tradition, but there’s also space for crispy cauliflower cotoletta, beetroot-leaf Greek pie and a dollop of onion ketchup for that Roman rice croquette.