Paul Schrader works the floor, smiling, pouring, delivering plates to diners, while Kelda Haines cooks the sort of food that satisfies profoundly. It’s the perfect partnership and one that has lasted nearly 20 years. Few things offer more comfort than a simple bowl of cooked rice, especially when it’s been enriched with generous amounts of butter and cream. On the menu since the beginning, Nikau’s kedgeree is an unpretentious dish that has become the benchmark against which all other kedgerees are measured. The secret is in the intriguing mix of spices that Kelda uses, an intuitive balance of vibrant flavours.
Recipe Category: Chefs Collections
This is a dish that nurtures the soul with its honest simplicity and flawless technique. A light combination of goat’s cheese and egg, the twice-baked soufflé rises out of a bubbling, golden, creamy cheese sauce. Inspired by Anne Willan, the American founder of La Varenne cooking school, it’s been on the menu since day one and ownerchef Carl Koppenhagen reckons he’s made more than 20,000 of these soufflés over the course of the past 15 years. It’s one of the best things you could ever hope to eat.
This playful dish gives an unusual riff on the pasta and ragù theme. In fact the pasta isn’t pasta at all, but ribbons of seldom-used squid shells. For best results make the day before serving. Note that for our photo Simon added a special touch, a parsley foam.
These crumpets use a sourdough starter, which you can make from scratch if you don't have access to one. Simply mix 100ml flour and 100ml water in a jar and cover with a cloth so that bugs can’t contaminate it. Depending on how warm it is where you are, the mixture will become active after three to seven days, at which point it’s ready to go. It will become bubbly, have a pleasant, fruity type of smell and should taste slightly acidic. You’ll know if it has gone bad! There’s a wealth of great information online on how to maintain your starter once it’s active.
Making your own ramen noodles using a pasta machine is great if you have the time, but you can use bought dried ramen for this recipe too. As well as working perfectly with the ramen, the charred chili oil is also a great addition to fried eggs, stir fries and soups.
The two sauces need to be made at least 6 hours in advance of cooking.