Recipe Category: Issue 188

Recipe

KATE FAY, CIBO ROASTED LAMB RUMP, SCHNITZEL CRUMB, LAMB-SHOULDER CIGAR & LEEK ASH

This extract demonstrates both how good and how bad food can be. Preparing a meal for family and friends is an expression of love, and it would have been an easy choice for us to make a great handmade pasta with an intense pesto, or a wildly exuberant seafood platter. But where’s the love in that unwanted schnitzel slung out of a uncaring kitchen? We’ve reinvented this, added a dollop of imagination and a spoonful of fun. We hope you won’t send it back to the kitchen uneaten.

Recipe

MISTER D’S BONE-MARROW RAVIOLI, SALSA VERDE & RED WINE JUS

Napier’s Mister D’s is the perfect showcase for one of this country’s finest chefs. An inner-city bistro with an Italian feel to the menu, the food is taken seriously and the importance of a classical training proves there is strength in technique. The sheer brilliance of the bone-marrow ravioli, the deeply flavoured broth that could be the elixir of life, the brightness of the salsa verde: this is confident cooking. It’s rich and meaty, though there’s no meat in it. While other dishes come and go on David Griffiths’ menus, this will always be there. It’s a dish that amply rewards the time and effort it takes.

Recipe

NIKAU KEDGEREE

Paul Schrader works the floor, smiling, pouring, delivering plates to diners, while Kelda Haines cooks the sort of food that satisfies profoundly. It’s the perfect partnership and one that has lasted nearly 20 years. Few things offer more comfort than a simple bowl of cooked rice, especially when it’s been enriched with generous amounts of butter and cream. On the menu since the beginning, Nikau’s kedgeree is an unpretentious dish that has become the benchmark against which all other kedgerees are measured. The secret is in the intriguing mix of spices that Kelda uses, an intuitive balance of vibrant flavours.

Recipe

THE ENGINE ROOM TWICE-BAKED GOAT’S CHEESE SOUFFLÉ

This is a dish that nurtures the soul with its honest simplicity and flawless technique. A light combination of goat’s cheese and egg, the twice-baked soufflé rises out of a bubbling, golden, creamy cheese sauce. Inspired by Anne Willan, the American founder of La Varenne cooking school, it’s been on the menu since day one and ownerchef Carl Koppenhagen reckons he’s made more than 20,000 of these soufflés over the course of the past 15 years. It’s one of the best things you could ever hope to eat.

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