This meat preparation may sound a bit technical but it’s not really once you have tried it for the first time. It’s a great opportunity to have a talk with your local butcher (my local butchers, Lucia and Eddie at Grey Lynn Butchers are my constant collaborators in all my catering and cooking). Take in this recipe and the butcher will explain the cut and show you how to trim, roll and prepare it. This cut is used for a rack of lamb when the bone is in, and the flap and fillet has been removed. But we want the bone out, the fillet and the flap left on, the fat layer intact and the skin removed.
Recipe Category: Issue 200
The idea for this entrée was to give it a different twist by creating a new texture. I wanted to keep the original ingredient but also add interesting new tastes.
I wanted to try and make this dessert vegan for a more sustainable approach but still following the spirit of the original recipe.
I wanted to add a fermented touch to this dish, which comes from the rice koji. The natural sweetness of the kūmara is kept in balance by including a pickled element.
Any variety of apple will work but a Granny Smith is good because it remains firm while baking. The more fluffy apples will taste equally good but do not present so well. We used to make our own crème fraîche and mascarpone. Now it is commercially available but it’s fun to make your own and you can flavour it with citrus zest, rum or brandy.
I always loved this dish: the bitter witloof, the creamy texture of the livers, and nut oil, an ingredient that had just become available. I’ve added into the original recipe some raspberry vinegar, which was also a newly available ingredient here, one that was made popular by the nouvelle cuisine emanating from the young guns in France who were influencing our cooking.
The spices can be changed to keep it interesting: try using orange zest, star anise, vanilla or tea to flavour the pears.
I absolutely love anchovies and consider them a pantry essential. A few chucked in a salad or pasta, or just on buttered bread (like the Italian staple burro e acciughe) is enough to make me happy! At home, my Italian partner makes me toast with parsley, butter, anchovies and lemon zest, and at work Alfie Ingham (head chef at Hugo’s) makes me these delicious snacks.
These pickled mushrooms are packed with flavour and are the perfect addition to a platter of treats, or sliced and added to salads. You could use apple cider vinegar in place of white wine, if preferred.