100g assorted dried mushrooms, rinsed
3 tablespoons olive oil
30g butter, plus 1 tablespoon extra
4 cloves garlic, 2 crushed, 2 finely sliced
2 shallots, finely chopped
¼ cup chopped flat-leafed parsley
125ml dry white wine
300ml cream
85g parmesan, grated
1 cup fresh breadcrumbs
½-1 teaspoon chilli flakes
200g enoki/snow needle/golden needle
a small bunch chives, chopped

This is a great side dish for proteins such as steak or chicken, perfect with a potato or vegetable gratin or it can be used as a sauce served with pasta or other grains. You can use any quickly fried fresh mushroom on top, but I love the delicacy and look of the enoki.

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1.Put the dried mushrooms in a bowl and cover with 500ml hot water.
2.Leave to soak for 30 minutes, stirring them occasionally, then drain, reserving the soaking liquid.
3.Squeeze out the mushrooms and chop them roughly.
4.Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil with the butter in a frying pan over a medium heat, add the crushed garlic, shallots and parsley and a good sprinkle of salt and fry for 5 minutes.
5.Add the wine and let it boil away to about half then add the chopped mushrooms and the mushroom-soaking liquid (pour the soaking liquid carefully discarding any gritty bits from the bottom).
6.Bring to the boil then turn the heat to a very low simmer – you don’t want too much bubbling – add the cream and simmer for 20 minutes to thicken.
7.Remove from the heat, stir in 50g of the parmesan and season to taste with salt and pepper.
8.For the breadcrumbs, heat the oven to 180°C.
9.Combine the breadcrumbs, remaining parmesan, chilli flakes (to taste) and 1 tablespoon of oil and season with salt.
10.Spread out on a baking tray and bake for 8-10 minutes, stirring once, until golden then cool and crumble.
11.Trim the base of the enoki and separate into small bunches.
12.Heat 1 tablespoon of oil and 1 tablespoon of butter in a frying pan over a medium-high heat, then add the enoki, sliced garlic and a sprinkle of salt.
13.Gently toss in the oil and butter for about 2-3 minutes until coated then add the chives and toss again.
14.Serve the sauce topped with the enoki and scatter with the crumbs.

Recipes & food styling Fiona Smith / Photography Aaron McLean / Styling Fiona Lascelles