At Rita they have thrown away the menu, leaving diners with little to debate – all you decide is whether to plump for vegetarian or not, if you want to add a side or two and what you’d like to drink. For many a chef, this would be a step too far, but Kelda Haines (pictured above with co-owners Paul Schrader, left, and Matt Hawkes, right) pulls it off. She’s a confident chef who knows how to cook good, nourishing and wholesome food. The menu changes every day and Kelda will cook you three courses such as a raw tuna entree with a buttermilk and sorrel sauce, porchetta with fennel and radicchio and dessert of Golden Queen peach flavours with ginger snaps and sago. Wellington hospo legend Paul Schrader runs front of house – and rest assured that when you’re in his hands you can always be confident of a good time.

IN BRIEF Three courses of brilliant home cooking