Rita delivers deceptively simple seasonal dishes in a daily changing three-course set menu. Chef Kelda Hains (pictured above centre with fellow co-owners Paul Schrader, left, and Matt Hawkes) uses masterstrokes to reinterpret European classics using local produce. The menu is small which allows Hains to constantly alter it so as to incorporate the best seasonal fare. Grilled purple-sprouting broccoli with goat’s cheese, hazelnuts and pickled lime makes for an inspired teaming of different textures. The desserts are not to be missed either with the Seville orange ice cream and treacle tart a match made in heaven.The small but eclectic drinks list complements the fare perfectly and the friendly service is well tuned and knowledgeable. With an open kitchen in full view of diners, cutlery drawers on each table and warm, ambient lighting, dinner at Rita is like eating at a friend’s place – comfortable and comforting.

IN BRIEF Home cooking in a relaxed venue