It can’t be easy taking over an institution that is synonymous with excellence in food, service and style. For three decades, The French Café has been in the careful hands of some of the country’s best chefs. Until September 2018, owners for 20 years, Simon Wright and Creghan Molloy-Wright, delivered food with simple elegance backed up with impeccable technique that made Simon’s cooking much loved. Assured service headed by Creghan made dining there a delight.

If anyone could do justice to the restaurant with a seamless transition then it would be another husbandand- wife powerhouse combination in Sid and Chand Sahrawat. Their restaurant, Sidart, has long been an exciting dining destination with thoughtful, clever cooking that makes full use of modern techniques and trends, applied with Sid’s effortless grace. Their other restaurant, Cassia, is rightly popular as one of the best Indian dining experiences in the country with a string of awards to its name.

Lesley Chandra, the long-time head of development and research at Sidart, has taken over the reins as head chef here and is doing a fine job. It says a lot about the trust the Sahrawats have in their staff but it is also a reflection of the time they spend encouraging them to gain new experiences for professional growth.

So if you have been dining at The French Café regularly for many years, will you be happy with the changes? The surrounds are much as they were with subtle tweaks, and it’s telling that most of the front-of-house staff have been retained. Restaurant manager Simon Benoit ensured that the service on our visit was impeccable. He’s a warm and engaging host who exudes calm professionalism without a whiff of snobbery. Sommelier Hiro Kawahara (ex-Cocoro) curates a wonderfully diverse wine list. If you aren’t choosing a wine pairing for your meal, then do let him suggest a glass for you as his selections are varied, interesting and on the nail.