WHEN CHRISTMAS rolls around, Maxine Scheckter is happiest in the kitchen. The pastry chef, author and founder of Sugar Flour Pastry School has built a career around the precision of pastry. “I love cooking at Christmas. It’s like Christmas is my day,” she says. “My in-laws find it hilarious because I’m actually Jewish.” Christmas took on a different meaning for Maxine when she joined their family. Growing up, Maxine’s parents worked in retail where she would spend time in the shop. While they would enjoy a nice lunch, she says the day did not carry the same significance it does now. “I only really started celebrating Christmas once I joined my in-laws’ family,” she says. “I love cooking for them every year.” Her in-laws had their own traditions, including waffles for breakfast, though that changed one Christmas when her father-in-law admitted he did not even like waffles. Over the years, Maxine gradually made the celebrations her own and the family has since adopted what she describes as a tapas-style Christmas.

Maxine’s approach to her creations is thoughtful, considered and always evolving. Previously recognised as one of Cuisine’s Top 50 Women in Food & Drink, Maxine has achieved plenty since first stepping into a kitchen at 16. After starting out in New Zealand, she travelled to Paris to study pastry, before working in London and Paris, including a stint at The Fat Duck. She eventually returned home to establish Sugar Flour as a pâtisserie, which evolved into a pastry school just a year after opening. Looking back, Maxine says the decision to back herself was pivotal. “Deciding to bet on myself and my skills gave me a chance to grow in my own environment. It was definitely a huge learning curve, and I would do so many things differently now,” she says. Today, her pastry classes are particularly popular in the lead-up to Christmas when the kitchen becomes a place for celebration and a little festive indulgence. The classes offer an opportunity for people to learn something new while enjoying the communal spirit that comes with making and sharing food. “In December I’m fully in the Christmas mode,” she says. “The classes always just have a really good vibe because people are getting into it. I do a lot of group classes as well for people’s Christmas parties.”

In Maxine’s eyes, a good dessert is about balance. Her recipe collection here embraces the abundance of summer, with fresh fruit and flavours that bring a great end to a meal. “Having a summer Christmas is so cool because we get to showcase the strawberries,” she says, explaining the inspiration for her strawberry trifle. The desserts are designed for those who would rather not spend the entire day in the kitchen as much can be prepared ahead of time, including the bundt cake that stays soft, moist and sticky for several days. “You can make it a few days before, and then just whip it out and look like a Christmas miracle.” The key, Maxine says, is to taste as you go, particularly when working with fresh fruit. Even richer desserts such as chocolate mousse benefit from something tart to cut through the sweetness. The result is a Christmas dessert that feels balanced rather than overwhelming, with each flavour given enough room to shine.

Following a book tour in Scotland for Pâtisserie Made Simple: The Art of Petits Gâteaux, which included classes and pop-ups, Maxine hopes to take similar events to America and Australia. Maxine’s ambitions for Sugar Flour are equally expansive. “I think my biggest dream in terms of the school would be to buy a property and create a beautiful school,” she says. As someone who has spent much of her life making pastry, the next chapter looks set to be just as creative as the last. If Maxine’s festive treats are anything to go by, the season is set to be a particularly sweet one. sugarflour.nz MIA BENNETT