WHY CHOOSE THIS RESTAURANT?

People often talk in an almost mythical way about how incredible the brunch scene is in Wellington, as if it is some sort of Valhalla for those beleaguered by a busy morning shopping on Cuba Street or having taken a lengthy stroll around the bays. While there can certainly be an argument made for this, I wonder whether or not this prevailing idea is simply down to the sheer quantity of options available rather than the outright quality or inventiveness of what is on offer. Don’t get me wrong  – there are some good brunch spots poaching eggs up there with the best of them – but now Völco on Egmont Street is truly raising the bar.

ABOUT THE CHEF

Kirran Buckland is a chef who knows how to design a menu – a real chef’s chef who isn’t afraid to stand out from the crowd and do something unique. Having started his career at 18 at Boulcott St Bistro, he then travelled the world working at iconic restaurants under the likes of Gordon Ramsay and Jason Atherton. Back in Wellington, he worked with Thom Millot at Amok before opening the short-lived but much loved Flint Social in Petone. With creative control across the Völco group, Kirran’s brunch menu is an absolute game changer in the city.

ABOUT THE MENU

There’s creativity and excitement at every turn. Pork schnitzel, pickled green tomato, green goddess sauce and fried egg – not something most would pick for brunch, but it is actually everything you could ever want. The pork is beaten out until it is thin and crisp. Eggs are fried in that perfect way you rarely find – lacey with a charred bottom and fudgy yolks. It is  a clever dish that hits all the notes of salt, fat, acid and heat: sour tomatoes, heat from relish, fat from schnitzel and herbaceous freshness from the green goddess sauce. Another great dish is the smoked fish, hash, tartare, pickled beetroot and herbs. The thick hash is one of Kirran’s signatures and is at once crisp, fatty and salty in all the right ways. Smoked salmon is whipped with lots of wonderful things and mint, parsley and other fresh  herbs are piled high for much needed verdancy. On the side, the pickled beetroot spikes and refreshes amid the decadence. All elements have their role and they play them unashamedly.

ABOUT THE TEAM

Head chef Byron Bunny runs the pass, the relaxing space thrumming with the work and precision coming from the open kitchen.

OF NOTE

Take away one of the best loaves of bread in the city on your way out of the door to enjoy later at home.

11 Egmont St, Te Aro,
Wellington
Check website for opening hours
Mains $18-$28
04 213 9954 instagram.com/
volcodoughclub