Leave behind the unassuming upper Cranford Street strip mall, and sidle through the bistro and bar to reach a dramatic, glamourous dining space with ruched wall coverings, black cord room dividers and glittery chandeliers. Here Chef Darren Wright stages five-, seven- or nine-course degustation menus of carefully stylised dishes with optional wine matches. You might be offered sous-vide salmon sitting on a little pulled smoked salmon, with fried kale and pickle garnish, or a crisp pork and prawn bonbon atop a pork medallion on a silky smooth apple puree. Wait staff are well-trained and courteous, seamlessly explaining food and wine options. Local wine producers are well represented on the wine list, with a good selection by the glass.

IN BRIEF Glam setting for fine-dining fare

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