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Gas barbecues have long reigned supreme in New Zealand, while smoke has been reserved for kahawai or trevally, but things are changing. Low ’n’ slow barbecue is a burgeoning part of New Zealand’s food scene and some of the country’s finest, most innovative restaurants are cooking atop raw flame and permeating their food with smoke.


Kelli Brett confronts the part of the paddock-to-plate process that most of us would rather ignore. Allan Brunt, Boning room senior supervisor, Alliance Lorneville.“This is the part where it gets tricky, the part where most people disconnect. Why doesn’t anyone want to talk about the fact that eating meat means that animals are killed?”


Clad in a t-shirt emblazoned with the words “In cod we trust”, Fleur Sullivan carefully tears open large pieces of freshly harvested kelp, deftly fashioning them into bags into which she’ll soon stuff whole crayfish, sea perch, and, of course, the venerable blue cod hailed on her top.


While kiwis are not as well-known for their affection for the prawn as Australians, plenty of New Zealanders make the most of the wee crustaceans over the summer months